thanks in advance if you can help
frankvery cool, but one contemplation here. next how do i connect the wires in any case? if you have a 2 ohm sub and a 4 ohm amp it won't produce enough power to properly power the sub. was wondering how difficult it is to add a sub to a factory car radio? factory stereos (including many premium models) do not have a separate subwoofer control adjustment. this boost in signal to the amp can result in a modest increase in bass going through your subs, but it can also put more stress on your stock speakers. you’re more interested in doing this yourself and want to tune via the amp, just go hi level and forget using a processor for now. sure what’s causing the amp to go into protection mode – as a test, i would try it with your pioneer sub disconnected and see if the amp still goes into protect mode just from cycling the ignition (with no speaker load on it). they do this to prevent you from blowing up the stock speakers. you can grab those wires either at the speakers themselves or behind the radio. getting this wrong may well overheat cables or even blow the amp itself so make sure your cables and setup are matched. A "Low line converter" is a device which will piggy back your speaker outputs from your head unit and convert them to Low Line RCA outputs for your amplifier . i have a 2006 cadillac sts with premium bose sounds system and factory sub in the back but i have just purchased the vehicle and haven’t had much time to ravage through and find out if it has a factory amp as well or where it is located. remember to shut off the amp if you do so manually. if you dont have it then you should acquire it from your car manufacturers customer service phone number, your local dealer or the internet. so be certain you get your signal from the stock subwoofer if your vehicle comes equipped with one. and attach the power wire to the other end of the resistor, your voltmeter should jump up to around 12. what can i do to eliminate the high frequencies coming out of the subs. so until you change the stereo, you won’t really get the full potential of the speakers. annie, i have a 2012 chrysler 300c and i want to hook up a amp and a sub. did you have the stock jbl amplifier in that car? hope that’s a start for you, but do some more homework before you feel comfortable tackling the project. someone told me to use the subwoofer outputs but there is no subwoofer in my car and if there are wires for one i don’t know which are which. if you use the pac lp7-2 with signal sensing remote turn on, the line output convertor itself will give you a remote turn on lead. how do i connect my new sub to my old amp? for the rca jacks, if your using a after market stereo on the back there is 2 rca jacks, just run the rca from there to the "in" on your amp and try to avoid running rca jacks alongside power lines to minimize noise. i play the radio the sound is low, lacks bass, cannot enjoy it at all. a defective factory navigation radio in a 2012 f-150 with kenwood’s ddx9902s.
seems you know your stuff maybe you can help me out with this problem? i’m assuming that’s how you had it wired in your last car if it was working well, just thought you should know that those subs can handle a bit more than your amp is currently supplying. charles – whenever you have an stock amplified system, most of the the time the stock amp has internal crossovers and it’s directing the lower bass frequencies to the stock subwoofer and upper and mid range to the appropriate sized speakers. make sure the fuse you choose is only active when the car is on. there, i just bought a 2003 cadillac cts and i wanted to know if its possible to hook up a sub and amp to the stock stereo,if i can how do i do it? i had this same system installed on a 2009 gmc sierra and was able to control the bass through the factory radio bass controls but nor sure why it doesnt control it on the jeep? find where you are going to mount it and work out if you need to add any wire to your converter to get . typically the only things that will cause an amp to shut down like that is a bad ground or a signal that is clipping causing the amp to overheat and shut down. gmousersuitcase boom-boxby garren11featured channelswoodworkingpaperkitchen hackspuzzleslaser cuttingspacehomesteading3d printingsewingnewsletterjoin 2 million + to receive instant diy inspiration in your inbox. i have them in a 2004 honda accord tapped in through both rear trunk speakers currently and they sound great and all but with all this new technology there has to be a way to improve, could you guide me with any way to improve my system when switching it from the honda to the cadillac? you still need to run a remote turn on lead to the amp from an ignition power source (unless you bought a signal sensing loc with remote turn on lead). if you have a stock stereo and you have the remote wire there you want to in twine the remote wire with the power wire before inserting in the power slot for amp. do i got to do to hook up a high powered amp like a 5000 watt to my stock head unit, it has navigation on it. i wish i had the time to tear mine down and start from the bare metal like that. problem is i don’t know which wires i should tap into. amp has an option of both high & low input as i was not sure of the availability of low level inputs from factory head unit…can u guide me on few of my queries here…. i removed the factory sub and just ran rca’s from the loc to my amp, which is powering a 12″ dvc pioneer sub (wired for 4ohms at the amp).. if the line out converter is not connected to the stock deck/dash unit, then there won't be a music input for the subs to function. far as physically how you connect them – you want to strip back the stock speaker wire, wrap your aftermarket speaker wire around that wire and solder, electrical tape, zip tie or heat shrink then connect to your loc (obviously after identifying what’s positive and negative, what’s left and right) ). you would just need to hook that up to the remote turn on lead from your aftermarket head unit (blue with white stripe). can you do that or am i way off the mark? sometimes you really only need to use two audio signals. bill, i’m not quite sure what you’re asking. you can read more about the new jl audio processor here, scroll towards the bottom of the post. if you wanted to build your own box, we like bass box pro software. as i say its not really influencing the signal to the rear speakers, i doubt it makes any difference you could detect with your ears even at high volume. annie, i have an 06 maxima with the factory premium bose sound system. and if so, would you have to run wires from the door speakers to the sub location, and then another set of wires back to the doors to the speakers? looks like that’s a 4 channel line output convertor which is why it’s confusing you. sure that you use cables with the correct resistance (or impedance) for your setup. to know how to hook up an amp and sub to a stock stereo?! i have a 2010 jeep wrangler and im trying to install a 1000watt pioneer amp and 2 12″ inch pioneer subs using the stock head unit that came with the jeep.
Factory Radio Improvement through OEM Integration & Upgrades atadditionally i would get a bass knob so you can have an independent sub level volume control as opposed to adjusting the bass on the head unit which will adjust bass levels to all speakers. if we have a factory sub we typically tie the positives together and tap into the single positive lead of the sub and negatives together and tap into the single negative lead of the sub. so i had the remote starter done by local shop and the audio done by a big box company. you may need to do an audio processor that sums the frequencies off the stock amp prior to your aftermarket amplifier so you can get a true full range signal. the infinity subs would be wired to your amp just like any other setup. you were doing in your last car wasn’t really control the sub. honda accords are equipped with a noise cancellation microphone in the cabin – it needs to be disconnected, that will fix your problem! you enjoy this blog and want to show some monetary appreciation to car stereo chick, kindly leave her a tip! you would be best to tie into the rear channel, this can be done @ the stock head unit. line drivers boost the signal from the stereo which can give you a lot more output. would look it up on my mechanic software (ondemand – subscription based), but if that’s not an option, you can always purchase schematic access for your own car from all data diy. you're going to use your stock stereo and run the amp from there you want to buy a line out converter ~. to know what you’re dealing with exactly, i would recommend buying a vehicle wire schematic specifically for your truck from all data diy. and also, why does my amp shut off only 10 minutes after i start using my system? does the "rem" stand for on my 100watt 16ser1002 amplifier? paras, that means you’ve got one of your positives and negatives mixed up when you tapped your speaker signal from the car. would cause my sub to kick in when radio is on and stop working when i change source to cd? which inputs do u prefer sound quality wise, high level from head unit or low level by using loc? i have a 2012 ram 2500 pickup with factory alpin system and touch screen deck. you still need to figure out what’s positive and negative (maybe by testing with the battery popper test with the factory sub reconnected? you can find wiring kits at most stores, ~ for 4 gauge wiring and in-line fuse, you won't need anything larger than 4 gauge. can i hook a sub up to that or do i need to get an aftermarket radio? now that you have your signal and remote turn on figured out, the rest is a pretty standard amp installation. your sub wires to the amp and screw them in. if you're using after market stereo there will be a blue wire coming from the wire harness in the back, mostly these are attached so you have to splice, just snip them and tape off the old end and run your remote wire to your amp. i was thinking of hooking it up to the ignition wire so it is turned on and off with the turn of the key, any problems with this? i think he only does this in cars that have a stock amp and have a direct low noise pre-amp level audio signal. you tap the input side of the amp you dont even need a line out converter you can just splice some rca plugs in and get your signal there. manufacturers offer these, below are a few that offer them:You pick out an enclosure (custom, vehicle specific or universal) that fits your vehicle, add the recommended subs and use an appropiately sized amp that has speaker level inputs. are there wiring harnesses out there that will allow me to do something like this with my factory head unit? it hears your sub and thinks it’s road noise and gets whacked out trying to correct it. it’s a basic set up it should be no problem: you have a stock stereo with left and right channels and a separate positive and negative for each speaker from the stereo? do i put an rca wire to a stock radio? up an amplifier to a stock radio is something that many of our customers do themselves. if you’re missing frequencies below 80 or 60 hertz, then you know there’s probably a stock amp somewhere (which most chrysler’s have) filtering the response. should i connect the remote wire so that i don't have to disconnect it when i turn off the car? and since you have the shelby model, you’ve already got the factory amplifier and a factory sub so you will need to play around with where you get your signal from. for wiring, you’ll need a 4 ga wiring kit, you’ll probably want to get a subwoofer control knob. your converter should come with wiring instructions so you will . it may be different in your truck, so always use a multimeter and battery speaker popper tester to confirm wires are correct. example : if you have a chevy and a sony stereo go to them and tell them you need a chevy to sony wiring harness, they will ask you the year of the vehicle and then go pick it off the shelf, these are usually by the install department behind the counter. if you were testing all of your wires earlier with a multimeter, you should know which wire is a switched power source. even if i remove the keys and open/close the doors, it all stays on.
to tune a subwoofer amplifierhow to hook up an amp and sub to a stock stereoarticle - 2 ohm, 1 ohm, 4 ohm, what's the difference? i can tell you the ones we use usually have 4 wires, but they’re usually gray, gray w/black stripe, white, white w/black stripe and that represents left and right front speaker leads. and if you ever did want to change the stereo, keep a look out for alpine and idatalink. every car is different, but i would try it at the factory sub first, see how it sounds and then go from there. first thing you will need, if you don’t already have it, is a line output converter. for example: if your subs are dual 4 ohm voice coil, and you wired them in parallel (positive to positive, negative to negative) that reduces the final impedance to 2 ohms. i have a 2010 camry and put 2 6×9 4-way rockford fosgate punch speakers in the front doors and 2 6×9 2-way rockford fosgate punch speakers in the back panel. if i were to tap into the factory speaker wires without the converter by cutting and splicing a rca cord? annie, i have a 2015 chrysler 300, i installed a kicker kisloc off the 4 factory sub wires in the trunk.’m sure there’s a stock sub if it has a 9 speaker system and yes you need to signal from there and if the amp doesn’t have built in you should use a loc. if it’s enough bass for you, then you could use that amp. if so, you can:-just use a line output convertor like this one. you tap the input side of the amp you dont even need a line out converter you can just splice some rca plugs in and get your signal there.
you are basically parallel-connecting the 4ohm speakers with the low-line converter. whenever you add an amp and sub to a stock system, you have to get your signal for that amp/sub from one (or two) of the stock speakers in the car. if the speaker is sucking back in, you have positive and negative reversed. you cannot just plug it in; you must charge it first with a resistor, use a 1k ohm resistor because they do not get as hot, it only takes a few seconds to charge, do not do this bare handed. annie, you sure have a pretty good knowledge of stereo’s…good on you., definitely tap your audio signal off any stock subs in the vehicle. xav-ax100 reviewbest double din navigation 2016 reviewbavsound stage one speaker upgradebest double din head unit 2015 dynamat reviewpioneer double din avh-x2700bsalpine ilx-007 reviewapp radio 4 - the good, the bad and the quirky. adding sub woofer you need adapter that converts speaker output into rca connections. usually the stock amp is fiber optic in those cars so you’ll get signal after the amp.
i have a low-level converter here (not that exact brand you're using, but surely they must all behave the same way) that i'm going to be installing in my car, but i didn't want to lose the 4 in-car speakers (regardless of how weak and pathetic they are) in the process. i currently have them connected to the 6x9s in the back but it doesn’t sound to great. did you run the remote to an accessory or ignition wire in the vehicle so the amp goes on and off with the key? i have a feeling that you used a line output convertor that is signal sensing or an amplifier that is signal sensing for the turn on and they’re not always reliable. like newer jeep cherokee’s with premium sound, they cut off the driver side door speaker at 60 hz, but not the passenger side – crazy weird, but you just don’t know until you test it.
have you encountered any issues with your system after doing this? you may want to get your signal from the speaker wires before or after the stock amp which is located underneath the rear deck in the trunk. with the proper parts and correct wiring, this can be an easy way to improve your factory stereo system..everythings working, you just need to mount your converter to something, only really to stop it rattling and tapping when you're driving, then cable tie any loose wires . "low line converter" is a device which will piggy back your speaker outputs from your head unit and convert them to low line rca outputs for your amplifier. factory speaker wires will not be labeled and will not be marked like typical aftermarket wiring harnesses. make sure to get your positive and negative’s correct, none of this stuff will be labeled so make sure you have the right tools to test (multimeter & battery speaker popper tester) and buy yourself a vehicle schematic for your car so you know how to identify everything (check out all data diy). to make your speaker wire tester, simply take some speaker wire and electrical tape the positive wire to the positive post and the negative wire to the negative end of the battery. have a 2000 saab 9-3 se with the premium sound system, factory amp and two mini subwoofers (kinda blown) but changed one already to an infinity kappa 62. 150 watts will add a nice little bump, but nothing too overpowering or substantial. common values are 2, 4, or 8 ohms, so do your homework beforehand.
i have installed a kit like you are talking about, it was 4 or 5 speaker wires that were spliced total. methods i used will require an understanding of car/car stereo electrics so just be careful so as not to damage your car or yourself :). Step by step how to guide with pictures on how to hook up an amp and sub to a stock stereo. you will need a line output converter as mentioned in this article and definitely an adjustable one like the stinger one that is shown. do i need to keep the factory sub installed and wired up too?
im having trouble with my 2006 chevy equinox can you guide me on how you would hook it up. i’ve seen some that are all digital up until the dsp amp which means you have to get your signal after the amp at the stock sub wires, but i’ve also seen some that have a left and right audio signal at the head unit before the amp. i’m not sure if you meant both of your subs as in stock subs and aftermarket subs or both subs in the two infinity reference subs. some amps offer a direct plug in style specific to their amp, others don’t.“if the speaker is moving out first then back in when you remove the battery, you have positive and negative correct”. the rear 6×9’s are the stock subs in that car so you may either have your positive and negative mixed up (out of phase) which will greatly reduce bass or you have an issue with how you tuned your amp or something else may be going on. when you buy the new wiring harness make sure its the same shape/size as your stereo. this is not a standard feature of all line output convertors, so depending on which one you use, you may still need to find an accessory power source in the vehicle. with the converter you get a small box with 2 rca's coming out and 4 speaker wires out the other. if you don’t, if you go to a midrange or tweeter, you’ll be feeding your amp midrange or tweeter frequencies and you won’t get any bass. the larger surface area will give you a little more kick. most amplifiers have a signal sensing turn on option these days so the idea is it doesn’t turn the amp on until it senses audio signal coming through the speakers. you’ve got a good installer, he should be able to take apart the knob and install it in a very clean way that looks like it came with the car. what if any options are there for this if using a factory head unit? just hooked mine up in a 2009 chevy silverado but even with the amp on just low frequencies i’m getting vocals out of my subs which makes it sound slightly distorted. or do you prefer i try to purchase maybe a more up to date amp for my optimal set up. therefore when you adjust the bass going to your regular interior speakers, you are also adjusting the signal going to the amp. would want to grab signal from both of the underseat subs if it’s a left and right audio signal. get your capacitor as close to the amp as possible, and use the same ground as you did for the amp. annie i’m hooking up a aftermarket hi-fonics zeus 1200 watt amp and subwoofer in my friends 2003 chrysler 300m special with the premium sound 9 speaker system and everything is hooked up correctly but i’m not getting any bass to the subs i know it has a factory amp located in the back under the deck and it also has the bass knob which is hooked up under the driver side panel under the wheel i don’t believe it has a subwoofer but i didn’t search either lol…. some amps have a line output converter built in so you don’t even need to use rca’s. i’m not trying to do too much to it because it sounds real good. i'm going to try to build a box that fits in the space in the rear where the tire jack equipment is now and put a 10 inch sub in there and mount some momo 6 1/2s in the factory mounts in the front doors and mid panels. also, if you connect the line out converter straight to the subs without an amp, they won't have enough power to function. i think maybe you just mean running along side with rear speakers operating. should i be able to control the bass through the bass adjustment on the factory radio? that amp is not rated as 1 ohm stable, which means you were probably running the amp at 4 ohms in your last set up. or so) would help with the spikes and not render the poor battery empty with every kick of the bass :dyou do realise that it's the battery that charges the capacitor, right? do you realize what the power capacitor does in a car stereo system? you’ll want to check the phase of the stock speaker wires. does it mean for me to attach the cables together by the wires, and then plug it in? after reading a ton i still don’t have a clear solution or a recommended integration devise. Factory head units rarely have RCA or "Low line" outputs which your amplifier will need for it's input signal. just installed a aftermarket radio in my 06 chevy equinox, everything turns on and looks like it is working but no sound is coming out. with any of these processors, if you don’t know how to set them up and install them, you can make it sound even worse than it did before. do i get power to amp subs that aren't playing? whenever you build an enclosure while taking into account the cabin acoustics, cabin size, subwoofer parameters, you can really build an awesome sounding enclosure. i’m misunderstanding your question, but it kind of sounds like you want to daisy chain the mtx off the existing amp/sub – can’t really do that. is the problem when i play music too load the system shuts down. you will need a multimeter and a double aa battery with some speaker wire hooked up to it in order to test for for speaker wires and the phase. with many aftermarket headunits, they have sub volume control so you can lower the subs volume and turn up the other speakers or vice versa.-replace your existing speakers and cut in/add an additional pair. disconnect the negative terminal from your battery before doing anything with electricity on your car.