How do you hook up subs to a factory radio

How do you hook up subs to factory radio

. i will need major help if possible to get a diagram as how i can implement that with the stock radio.? there are no speakers on the rear deck, all of the speakers are in the doors. we’re really just using the processor as the head unit, but we have had success using this processor in amplified stock audio systems (that have can bus and you have to sum your signals and get them after the stock amp). it is very important to match the rms of your subs to your amp.)i was really surprised at how good the sound quality is, i only run a sub through it but i tested some speakers and i couldn't pick up any signal loss, if the radio isn't as complicated it should only really make it easier to work out which wires are which, but obviously don't chop into them if you're not sure..but what i wanted to know is how do i get power to the subs do i need a a line out converter or loc or do i need to tap into the factory amp somewhere please help i’ve been trying to figure out the nonsense all day and i’m a lil frustrated. i don't want to redo the whole thing, but would like to add a sub ( and amp? keep in mind you’re only getting your audio signal from those stock subs, you will still need to run traditional power wire from the battery, ground the amp, etc like any other install. you can get a full range signal behind the head unit you should get your signal at the stock sub. of whether you choose to go with a self powered line level subwoofer or with a custom enclosure powered by an external amplifier (w/line level inputs) you can still use your stock (oem) radio. this point swap the battery wires and you will see the speaker first sucking in and then releasing back out if the polarity is reversed. don’t know what kind of loc you are using, it should have come with instructions that label the wire colors. might be able to check the actual voltage as well with this app, but i don’t think it would be different. those will be designed to do the tuning and tweaking themselves, making it a much simpler install. 4: splicing inokay, now you'll need to match up your head unit wiring with the wiring required by your converter. keith, you can grab that signal right at the stock bose subwoofer. can i hook a sub up to that or do i need to get an aftermarket radio? generally the rear speakers have the least eq on them as the higher frequency stuff doesnt matter when the speaker is 4' behind you and firing into the back glass. all of those things effect the sound quality and output you will achieve. cars tie the power antenna lead into the stock amp turn on wire, so if you didn’t try it, you could hook up the power antenna lead on the car side. annie…maybe you can answer two questions i can’t seem to find information on. i only ask because i just recently (this past weekend) installed a mono amp in my son's dodge dakota, used the "amp-supplied line out converter", but spliced into the front channel (it's a quad cab truck with four door speakers-all the same). i read some of your blogs but want to get more specific with my car.  this can be pretty frustrating as it means your subwoofer level may stay the same regardless of you turning up the volume knob on the stereo. according to crutchfield, if you don't have a bose system, the rear speakers are in the doors. otherwise you could look into a processor like jl audio’s fix-82 or alpine’s pxah800 if you ever wanted to really clean up the dsp processor and amp the speakers. you want an amp more powerful than your sub, because you don't want your sub to clip. that you have your speaker wires figured out, we can move on to the remote turn on lead. where is the best place to hook up a line output converter when adding an amp for a sub?’m wanting to install aftermarket amp/sub/speakers to my stock radio.  you do not want the amp wired up to constant power as this will drain your car battery. to organize and hide your hanging computer cables under your desk.: adding rcas to a standard car head unitif you want to upgrade your sound system in your car by adding a sub woofer or speakers powered by an auxiliary amplifier without having to get a . for the rem wire, i recommend wiring it to a fuse in your fuse box to prevent battery drain.  if you were to get the right rear speaker positive and negative correct, but the left rear speaker positive and negative reversed, you will have effectively canceled out your bass frequencies.'s makeexplore contestsclassespublishfeatured:3d printing classarduinosewingwith instructables you can share what you make with the world, and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts. removing factory sub and adding a memphis pr 10″, using a scoche loc90. sometimes you need to go before the amp, sometimes after. when the install is complete and i hook back up the battery neg terminal to the car, the system works and sounds good.  factory radios don’t have pre amp outputs, this adapter will convert factory speaker wire into a preamp output. terry, i would recommend it because that “feature” will carry over to the amp and speakers and you may find it sounds good at certain volumes and changes on you as the head unit does it’s internal processing. an loc (line out converter) that will pick up your signal for the amp through the rca. are you certain it doesn't have a sub or preout on the back?

Can you hook up subs to a factory radio

to know how to hook up an amp and sub to a stock stereo? the way, i saw your pics of your truck in the link in the "subwoofer to amp wattage thread". stereo keys to remove your head unit, you may not need these depending on . i’m trying to connect front speakers, sub and amp in my oem unit, but i’ll need 2 sets of rca’s to do this correct? you’re simply tapping into those wires to get your audio feed, it won’t effect how those rear speakers are functioning in any way. should be rca female plugs on your amp, and on the new sub-box enclosure, there should be another set of rca plugs or clamps. of these trucks have a stock amp/sub – if so you can get access under the center console. so you want to make sure you’re getting a left and right audio signal with both left and right positive and negative leads., I was wondering how difficult it is to add a sub to a factory car radio? by continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookie policy. you for the kind words, i really appreciate the input.? and while feeding the amp output back to speakers n subs we connect speaker wires to each speaker leads, so whats the difference between amp input signal n amp output signal, its confusing me as for eg. you can help… is it possible to hook an oem am radio with the “redirad” from a 1965 barracuda to an amp in order to split it to run more than the one speaker it came from the factory with. if they sound good together, but sound crappy when mixed with the rest of the car speakers, you’ve got them both out of phase with the rest of the system. you can take the speaker leads off the back of the stock stereo and route them directly to your amp. parallel has a whole other meaning in car audio and maybe that’s why you’re having a hard time finding an answer the loc has separate leads for left and right, positive and negative. how to test the speakers you’re tapping for signal? so if you get your signal from the front speakers, (positive & negative, left and right) use the front rca on the convertor and likewise if you decide to use the rear speakers for signal. know my husband does this sometimes but i don’t know how he determines which vehicles it’s okay to do this in and which ones are not. sounds like maybe you used the signal sensing feature of your line output convertor, they can do funky things like that. you definitely need to get your signal from there and usually you have to get the signal after the amp as it’s usually a data signal before the amp. once you have it go unscrew your stock stereo, unplug it, plug in your new wiring harness, and plug in the other end to your stereo. head units rarely have rca or "low line" outputs which your amplifier will need for it's input signal. do more research, unfortunately i don’t have time to explain how to do your whole install, but do not power the speakers off the stock head unit and the aftermarket amp. you would be best to tie into the rear channel, this can be done @ the stock head unit. subs and amps should be matched as closely as possible for best performance and longevity. if the signal going into the amp is distorted, that could be what’s causing it shut down at higher volumes. the radio stays on, as does the clock and the 12v ports. just had a kicker zx400 amp and 2 12″ subs installed on a 2012 jeep wrangler with the premium sound system with amp. so i have a 2008 mitsubishi outlander ls, 6 standard speaker with radio 140 watts. converter i bought also gives you a "remote wire" output which tells your amp when the car is on so it doesn't drain your battery, if you get a converter without this option you can just join the remote wire to the acc circuit of your car, or the 12v circuit with a switch (you will have to remember to turn it off though or your amp will drain your battery). i have read that the amp also powers the door speakers. this happens when i switch the car off or when i open the door. is very important when matching subs and amps, yes not enough power will make subs clip, but also to much power will burn your voice coils by over heating them with too much power . i have n 07 cadillac cts none bose but have an amp n stock head unit i put coil axe pioneers in the doors i have a stock sub in the rear deck i pick up a bazooka tube self amp i tried to wire behind amp did not work tried head unit did not work says it’s easy install not in this case any advice i have a loc but some say behind radio n i heard u say at the sub if u have any advice pls i’d appreciate it. uswho we areadvertisecontactjobshelpfind usfacebookyoutubetwitterpinterestgoogle+resourcesfor teachersartists in residencegift premium accountforumsanswerssitemapterms of service|privacy statement|legal notices & trademarks|mobile site© 2016 autodesk, inc.. can i still add the sub to the stock radio? also i’m installing a fi sp4 15″ in a custom built enclosure by fat box powered by a sundown 2500d. so i had the store last week install a 600w kicker four channel amp, all new kicker ks speakers everywhere except the dash and some dynamat in the front doors. meaning if the bass level if your stock stereo stays steady output, despite raising the volume from low to high, if it stays pretty even through out it’s probably self attenuating. you would be best to tie into the rear channel, this can be done @ the stock head unit.’d prefer the back speakers to run off the hu, so do i splice two connections for both sets of rca’s from the front speakers? there was no change in sound/volume from radio to cd.

How do you hook up subs to a stock radio

can i do if my stereo doesn't work after i attached my blue wire to the turn on wire? everything works fine when i turn my radio on and off the amp goes off and on…. subs are dual 4 ohm which is not ideal when you’re running two subs and using a mono amp. the amp where you want it, then attach the ground (black or brown) wire to the amp..I want to add a sub to my is 250 awd but it came with nav and you can not replaace the radio with out loseing your hvac controls.  if this is the case and you wire in your line output converter to the rear door speakers, you may only be getting frequencies of 80 hz and up, not exactly what you’re looking for when it comes to bass. if you do decide to upgrade speakers and you want to power them off the stock stereo, make sure they are efficient and while you’re in there install dynamat as that will really help to provide a better cabinet for the speakers to operate in. i don’t see how the amp could have been back-feeding and keeping the accessory on because that’s how the amp knows to turn on (if they didn’t use a signal sensing turn on). basically, you need more professional, more experienced shop to help you. you unplug your factory fitted radio, make sure you have the "unlock code" usually in the owners handbook. am hooking up after market amp in 2008 range rover and have loc converter got to factory sub but has four wires red and black also green and grey on the other side which ones do i hook up to to get bass for after market subs. i highly recommend buying a wire schematic for your truck from all data diy so you know exactly what you’re working with and can see exactly which options you’ve got. have you considered maybe the quality of the product is not up to par? these converters are around 25 bucks from your local car audio shop. gauge, 2 gauge, 8 gauge, 0 gauge - how to choose the right sized power and ground for your amphp filter, lp filter, what do crossovers do?

thanks in advance if you can help


very cool, but one contemplation here. next how do i connect the wires in any case? if you have a 2 ohm sub and a 4 ohm amp it won't produce enough power to properly power the sub. was wondering how difficult it is to add a sub to a factory car radio? factory stereos (including many premium models) do not have a separate subwoofer control adjustment. this boost in signal to the amp can result in a modest increase in bass going through your subs, but it can also put more stress on your stock speakers. you’re more interested in doing this yourself and want to tune via the amp, just go hi level and forget using a processor for now. sure what’s causing the amp to go into protection mode – as a test, i would try it with your pioneer sub disconnected and see if the amp still goes into protect mode just from cycling the ignition (with no speaker load on it).  they do this to prevent you from blowing up the stock speakers. you can grab those wires either at the speakers themselves or behind the radio. getting this wrong may well overheat cables or even blow the amp itself so make sure your cables and setup are matched. A "Low line converter" is a device which will piggy back your speaker outputs from your head unit and convert them to Low Line RCA outputs for your amplifier . i have a 2006 cadillac sts with premium bose sounds system and factory sub in the back but i have just purchased the vehicle and haven’t had much time to ravage through and find out if it has a factory amp as well or where it is located. remember to shut off the amp if you do so manually. if you dont have it then you should acquire it from your car manufacturers customer service phone number, your local dealer or the internet.  so be certain you get your signal from the stock subwoofer if your vehicle comes equipped with one. and attach the power wire to the other end of the resistor, your voltmeter should jump up to around 12. what can i do to eliminate the high frequencies coming out of the subs. so until you change the stereo, you won’t really get the full potential of the speakers. annie, i have a 2012 chrysler 300c and i want to hook up a amp and a sub. did you have the stock jbl amplifier in that car? hope that’s a start for you, but do some more homework before you feel comfortable tackling the project. someone told me to use the subwoofer outputs but there is no subwoofer in my car and if there are wires for one i don’t know which are which.  if you use the pac lp7-2 with signal sensing remote turn on, the line output convertor itself will give you a remote turn on lead. how do i connect my new sub to my old amp? for the rca jacks, if your using a after market stereo on the back there is 2 rca jacks, just run the rca from there to the "in" on your amp and try to avoid running rca jacks alongside power lines to minimize noise. i play the radio the sound is low, lacks bass, cannot enjoy it at all. a defective factory navigation radio in a 2012 f-150 with kenwood’s ddx9902s.

Life with a factory stereo

How do you hook up subs to a factory radio

most cases, you will want to wire the line output converter in behind the stereo. is it possible to just hook up a loc to the rear factory sub and then just run the amp from there??I had the same question about installing a sub to factory radio, my wife has an 05 altima with a factory bose 6 speaker system that i really don't won't tear into, and it sounds pretty good, i would just like to alitte low end maybe a 8'' or maybe a 10'', not looking for a ground pounder , there is what looks to be a small amp mounted under the back deck lid, could i just tie in to the wiring harness there?'t forget to test your rem wire before you assume it works. that’s okay, you can still use it, just use one side, either the front or the rear. for readers that need more details on polarity testing you can check out this video post or this post on wiring up a head unit when the wires have been cut. i’m set to take it back next wednesday but if you could offer your thoughts on what’s going on there, i’d appreciate it and would love to have a sound theory to tell the installer. you have determined the proper speaker wires for the rear speakers, you can tap into them and hook them up to the line output converter. or did you cut and splice rca cables into the stock speaker wire? 12v power and ground connectors to the wires will reduce circuit resistance and make your power cleaner, giving you better sound.  if you are adding an amp and sub to a factory premium sound system with it’s own stock subwoofer, you must get your signal for the line output converter from that subwoofer.  if you have a premium factory radio, that has it’s own amplifier, check to see if there is a factory subwoofer. It is very important to match the RMS of your subs to your amp. car speakers for basswhat should you buy first when you want a good car stereo system? for best results, please make sure your browser is accepting cookies. i guess in this case they used a separate line output converter since you mentioned they used rca cables. your rear speakers are on the rear deck, so its easy to tag on to your speaker wires there. that’s how most of these newer premium chrysler/dodge/jeep/ram audio systems are these days. having a bass knob is nice even if you have an aftermarket stereo. so whichever route you decide to go, make sure you go to an experienced installer who knows what a frequency sweep is, a scope is, and what an rta is and make sure he knows how to use them because you really need all three to set up a processor correctly in a vehicle like this. oh well, you can just pull the radio and tag the speakers there, you'll have to get an ignition source for the remote wire and its all behind the radio.  if the speaker is moving in and out, you have positive and negative correct. if i do so do you think the stock amp will do the aftermarket speakers justice? i don’t want to spend money buying a deck, but i guess if this really is the problem i won’t have a choice.  you may have to get your signal before or after the amplifier; every car is different and you just need to try it to really see what will work best for your vehicle and application.-what did you use to tie it into the stock system? i’m curious, when you stay stock subwoofers, where were they located? there is also no remote wire in the harness, how does my am know when to turn on?  if you do not, you will not get any bass output. it was probably a dual voice coil woofer and that’s probably why you have 4 wires, they’re probably two sets of positive and negative, but hook the factory sub back up and test to confirm or you can always purchase a vehicle wire schematic from all data diy. so it truly depends on whether the connection behind the radio is what we call pre-amp level and actually a straight up left and right full range signal or if it’s after the amp and crossed over. good luck with your install, it took me a couple of hours, but you won't have to keep stopping to take photos ;)hmm. back a little bit of the wire and hook each end of the battery tester up to a pair of wires. if you do that, you’ll also need 1 additional set of rca’s, assuming the amp kit you buy comes with one (there is an in and an out on the control knob). the scion’s stock sub is wired in parallel to the front speakers, chances are you’re just not powering up the stock amplifier which is only for the subwoofer. your only wiring options are running each subs voice coils series, then parallel the subs for a final 4 ohm load or wire the voice coils parallel, then parallel the subs for a final 1 ohm load. figure out where you're going to place the amp, put the beginning of your power (red) wire there and give it about a foot of wire extra, then begin to hide and run the power wire to under the hood. i hooked up an amp and 12″ sub to a 2013 honda civic using an adapter to get rca jack from back speakers of said auto. if you need to drill a hole in the fire wall, be careful not to hit anything on the other side and be sure the drilled hole will not cut through your power line. thing with any of these processors is you really need to set them up properly, it’s easy to screw it up. if they sound better playing alone, you’ve got your phase screwed up somewhere between those speakers (one is out of phase). you're using an after market head unit, go to an electronics store's stereo department and ask for a wiring harness from your car to the after market head unit.. you should be able to connect it to the auxiliary on the back of the stereo unit.

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How to hook up an amp and sub to a stock stereo. - Car Stereo

tap, splice, solder, and tape the loc off of the stock sub channel and you’ll get an rca level connection for your mono amp.  if you have a pair of speaker wires, you will hear the speaker popping or scratching. at the back of your stereo there is most likely one big plug which incorporates all of the inputs and outputs to and from . best way to do this would be to use a processor that corrects the audio coming out of the head unit before it gets fed into the amp. you’re going more for output and sound quality, go for two 12″‘s rated around 300 watts each and they would need to be either single voice coil 4 ohms or dual 2 ohms, also sealed box. try switching the source for your remote turn on lead to a different accessory power source. but when balance is even, i don’t get any bass. you’ve already got the equipment so i would wire it up and see how it sounds. but you’ll have to see, if it’s not fiber optic then there will be a full range signal coming from the head unit, you could use that. do i need to pull the rear speaker wires from the deck and wire them into the loc? it to a fuse connected to ignition turn on, like your accessory power fuse.« previousnext »view all steps download

seems you know your stuff maybe you can help me out with this problem? i’m assuming that’s how you had it wired in your last car if it was working well, just thought you should know that those subs can handle a bit more than your amp is currently supplying. charles – whenever you have an stock amplified system, most of the the time the stock amp has internal crossovers and it’s directing the lower bass frequencies to the stock subwoofer and upper and mid range to the appropriate sized speakers. make sure the fuse you choose is only active when the car is on. there, i just bought a 2003 cadillac cts and i wanted to know if its possible to hook up a sub and amp to the stock stereo,if i can how do i do it? i had this same system installed on a 2009 gmc sierra and was able to control the bass through the factory radio bass controls but nor sure why it doesnt control it on the jeep? find where you are going to mount it and work out if you need to add any wire to your converter to get . typically the only things that will cause an amp to shut down like that is a bad ground or a signal that is clipping causing the amp to overheat and shut down. gmousersuitcase boom-boxby garren11featured channelswoodworkingpaperkitchen hackspuzzleslaser cuttingspacehomesteading3d printingsewingnewsletterjoin 2 million + to receive instant diy inspiration in your inbox. i have them in a 2004 honda accord tapped in through both rear trunk speakers currently and they sound great and all but with all this new technology there has to be a way to improve, could you guide me with any way to improve my system when switching it from the honda to the cadillac? you still need to run a remote turn on lead to the amp from an ignition power source (unless you bought a signal sensing loc with remote turn on lead). if you have a stock stereo and you have the remote wire there you want to in twine the remote wire with the power wire before inserting in the power slot for amp. do i got to do to hook up a high powered amp like a 5000 watt to my stock head unit, it has navigation on it. i wish i had the time to tear mine down and start from the bare metal like that. problem is i don’t know which wires i should tap into. amp has an option of both high & low input as i was not sure of the availability of low level inputs from factory head unit…can u guide me on few of my queries here…. i removed the factory sub and just ran rca’s from the loc to my amp, which is powering a 12″ dvc pioneer sub (wired for 4ohms at the amp).. if the line out converter is not connected to the stock deck/dash unit, then there won't be a music input for the subs to function. far as physically how you connect them – you want to strip back the stock speaker wire, wrap your aftermarket speaker wire around that wire and solder, electrical tape, zip tie or heat shrink then connect to your loc (obviously after identifying what’s positive and negative, what’s left and right) ). you would just need to hook that up to the remote turn on lead from your aftermarket head unit (blue with white stripe). can you do that or am i way off the mark? sometimes you really only need to use two audio signals. bill, i’m not quite sure what you’re asking. you can read more about the new jl audio processor here, scroll towards the bottom of the post. if you wanted to build your own box, we like bass box pro software. as i say its not really influencing the signal to the rear speakers, i doubt it makes any difference you could detect with your ears even at high volume. annie, i have an 06 maxima with the factory premium bose sound system. and if so, would you have to run wires from the door speakers to the sub location, and then another set of wires back to the doors to the speakers? looks like that’s a 4 channel line output convertor which is why it’s confusing you. sure that you use cables with the correct resistance (or impedance) for your setup. to know how to hook up an amp and sub to a stock stereo?! i have a 2010 jeep wrangler and im trying to install a 1000watt pioneer amp and 2 12″ inch pioneer subs using the stock head unit that came with the jeep.

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: PAC Premium Amplifier Add-On/replacement Radio

the remote turn on could be a white wire in the stock radio harness (listed in directechs software for 2008 and up).  after removing the radio, using your meter, check for power, ground and accessory wires. on what kind of line output convertor you’re using. if you wanted more output, you’re already wired up so at that point you could just buy a more powerful amp and swap it out. blogger, car stereo shop owner, and crazy cat lady (please spay and neuter your pets - for my sake). then when the fix and the twk comes out from jl you can clean it up even more. oh well, you can just pull the radio and tag the speakers there, you'll have to get an ignition source for the remote wire and its all behind the radio. an amp and subwoofer to a stock radio can be the easiest way to improve your stereo system in your car, if you do it correctly. comments for “how to hook up an amp and sub to a stock stereo. or if you know the polarity of the front speakers, and they’re full range, you could always get the audio signal from those. i hooked up a line output converter and when i shut my car off the amp begins to work and apply bass. you don't need the other 2 speaker wires, from here secure the line out connector out of sight and run the rca's to the amp, plug them into the "in" rca jacks.. previous comment disappeared :s take two:

thank you :)

i may not need to stop to take pictures of the process, but in addition to the rca outputs i also need to create and install a 12v-5v converter, a 7-port powered usb hub, headphone-radio transmitter, and other assorted goodies. annie, am trying to install 2500w 5 channel acoustik amp along withh 400 w 12″ pioneer 4ohm dvc sub to factory system in my honda accord. the power cable from the battery and attach your amp's power wire to the power cable for your vehicle; leave it unattached. the top of my head, i’m pretty sure it’s a digital signal before the stock amp so i don’t think you can get a full range pre-amp level source. have measured the space where the current amp is (center of the dash at the bottom, behind a storage compartment) and i may need to do a little trimming to make an aftermarket 5-channel there i am confused again) i found the wires on the back of the head unit that i need to tap into (which i believe are the front speakers because they are 6×9’s and my rear speakers which are on the roll bar are 4×4’s, just dont know which set to use) if you could help me put an end to my madness annie it would be greatly appreciated! and you’ll need some speaker wire, check the amp kit, many come with it, but not all of them.  if you just tap into a pair of speaker wires and happen to get some sound, you may not necessarily have positive and negative correct. thank you for your time and consideration to replying to this question. his head unit doesnt put out more power than his amp is capable of taking through the rca input. you want to upgrade your sound system in your car by adding a sub woofer or speakers powered by an auxiliary amplifier without having to get a new head unit then hopefully this should help you :) I decided to keep my standard head unit because it looks well in the car, is less likely to attract thieves than a shiny after-market unit and it is a factory upgraded unit anyway and i find it gives pretty good audio quality, it works with the steering wheel controls and has bluetooth and aux-in, so an after-market unit wouldn't offer a substantial upgrade. like a positive one side of sub and negative on other side of factory sub ? you'll need:low line converter, i got mine on ebay here for £6. we use a similar service, mitchell ondemand (monthly subscription required) and that allows us to see what we’re dealing with and what it’s going to take to get the wiring right. want to keep the look of my truck stock so i may swap out the stock door speakers, tweeters, and center speaker.. do you know if the stock speaker have connection for a sub?, we just need to make sure you're not a robot. if there’s only one stock sub and one pair of wires, you can double up the wire connections so you are creating a left and right channel for the loc (run two positive taps, two negative taps for the left and right +/- connections on the loc). anything i add must be tied in post factory amp. we normally take it apart and mount the box behind a panel so all you see is the knob itself. ideally, we don’t really want to send a lot of bass to them now that you have a subwoofer. don't guess the code as you usually only get a few attempts before it will permanently lock it'self!.whats happening is my door speakers are either entirely flat with no tweat,or they are all tweat. so definitely get the loc and a separate amp to power your mtx – you could also get an amp that has the loc built into it too, but either way definitely just grab your signal from the stock sub, but use that signal to feed a dedicated amp to power your mtx.’m trying to hook up my 2006 scion tc stock subwoofer to my after market head unit. for a 2008 silverado without the factory bose upgrade will gms active loudness function (or higher volume variable bass reduction) require me to install a sound processor or is this what the amp’s bass boost is for? other possibility here is your phase is incorrect, are you sure you got positive and negative correct? read many of the comments left by other users and all the great solutions you left them with and i’m sure using a little common sense i could figure it out myself but, you have more experience than i. but you can tune the front and rear channels separately on the amp to get a balanced sound that is appealing to you. you might want to would wait to see what jl comes up with, but it may be another 9 months or so before they release anything. are you certain it doesn't have a sub or preout on the back?

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Scosche Line-Out Converter with Bass Control -

i’m adding subs and an amp with a pac lp7-2. you’re going for sound quality, i would recommend one good 12″ rated around 600 watts with a 2 ohm load in a sealed box (either single voice coil, or dual 4 ohm wired in parallel down to 2 ohms). allan, sorry to hear about your experience, but it sounds like a bunch of unprofessional installers. you can do that by wiring the aftermarket head unit’s remote turn on (blue with white stripe) to the stock power antenna lead (solid blue if using aftermarket wire harness) and see if that does the trick. you want to take out a door speaker and run 2 of the 4 speaker wires to it, pay attention to the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals. problem you may encounter when wiring an amp and sub into a premium factory sound system is the signal level may be too high or too low. most amplifiers have their own optional plug in style bass knob accessory, but if yours doesn’t, you could use a universal bass knob like this from pac audio. if you're venturing that far into car audio it's probably going to be worth a new headunitwell, it's not so much that the amp is huge (it's only 4x100w rms), but that the yaris' battery is tiny.? i got 2 10 inch kicker competition,and a 800 watt power bass amp,stock radio…. you’ll have to run your remote wire to an ignition source in the car so the amp turns on with the key and goes off with the key. double din navigation 2016 – kenwood dnx893s, alpine ine-w967hd or pioneer avic-8200nex? but now when you adjust the bass, you’re not hearing a difference in your sub. do i have to splice the loc on both subs or just one? jack to rca directly to the speakers using the radio as a medium. keys to remove your head unit, you may not need these depending on the manufacturer and fitting type in your carmultimeter. so if you don't have the remote wire from the after market head unit to turn on the amp when ever you turn on the stereo you have to turn your amp on manually. you’ll also need a hi to lo level convertor (stinger has a nice one sgn13. also, on your aftermarket amp, make sure the low pass filter is on. you could grab your audio signal right at the stock subwoofer in the cadillac..but nowhere have i found where its stated that its okay to do so! you could always use a universal bass knob like this, but you’ll need an extra set of rca cables for that feature. your stock head unit does not have rca leads so you would be using the loc. try turning the amp down and your stereo up

i've had no issues at all, the converter doesn't put a load worth considering on the rear speaker circuits as it's only really listening to the signal, it draws all its power separately from a 12v feed. rear speakers are on the rear deck, so its easy to tag on to your speaker wires there. you are adding an amp and sub to an already amplified factory system, you need to wire your amp in a little differently. check the frequency response and make sure they are playing full range and not crossed over, you can play a frequency sweep through the front speakers, then the rear and measure the response. i do like the audio control acubass loc for digital bass restoration. really dont want to replace my factory radio (uconnect 8 rnr system), so i am going to give a loc a try. its got 2 rca out-put side (i dont know which one to use) and about 16 diffrent places to put the wires into (i thought i only needed 4 slots.? do i have to keep the harness plugged into the head unit or do i have to keep it unplugged as i read somewhere you cannot power the speakers from both factory hu and amp simultaneously. to wire up an aftermarket stereo when your stock harness has been cuteasy way to identify positive and negative on factory speaker wiringwhat does it mean to bridge an amp?  you will want to make sure you are not sending power to any wires other than speaker wires, so that is where your multimeter comes in handy. with this processor you also have the option of using a digital aux in so for a dedicated super high fidelity source, you can use an ipod running through a high quality digital to analog convertor straight into the processor. if you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!  once you know what is not speaker wires, you can start testing pairs of wires. you need to do is get a rca wire, cut in half, strip both the outer and inner wire. anne i have a 2014 jeep cherokee sport and the jeep came with no amp or subs. in home audio subs can be hooked up with speaker-level connections; can this be done in the same manner with a car audio setup? important tip here, if you are adding the amp and sub to the stock deck, you must get your signal using that hi to lo level converter at the stock subs. a jl w3 or w6 would be nice, an alpine type r, the hertz energy series or hi-energy series subs are great sounding too. cammy, you really should get signal from both rear speakers as your factory stereo is putting out a stereo signal to the rear speakers and the amp wants to see stereo mixed into mono. the gain all the way down, start playing music and turn it up to where you usually listen, where the mids sound good. if you have one or both of the speakers out of phase compared to all the other speakers in the car, it will sound pretty bad.

Factory Radio Improvement through OEM Integration & Upgrades at

additionally i would get a bass knob so you can have an independent sub level volume control as opposed to adjusting the bass on the head unit which will adjust bass levels to all speakers. if we have a factory sub we typically tie the positives together and tap into the single positive lead of the sub and negatives together and tap into the single negative lead of the sub. so i had the remote starter done by local shop and the audio done by a big box company. you may need to do an audio processor that sums the frequencies off the stock amp prior to your aftermarket amplifier so you can get a true full range signal. the infinity subs would be wired to your amp just like any other setup. you were doing in your last car wasn’t really control the sub. honda accords are equipped with a noise cancellation microphone in the cabin – it needs to be disconnected, that will fix your problem! you enjoy this blog and want to show some monetary appreciation to car stereo chick, kindly leave her a tip! you would be best to tie into the rear channel, this can be done @ the stock head unit.  line drivers boost the signal from the stereo which can give you a lot more output. would look it up on my mechanic software (ondemand – subscription based), but if that’s not an option, you can always purchase schematic access for your own car from all data diy. you're going to use your stock stereo and run the amp from there you want to buy a line out converter ~. to know what you’re dealing with exactly, i would recommend buying a vehicle wire schematic specifically for your truck from all data diy. and also, why does my amp shut off only 10 minutes after i start using my system? does the "rem" stand for on my 100watt 16ser1002 amplifier? paras, that means you’ve got one of your positives and negatives mixed up when you tapped your speaker signal from the car. would cause my sub to kick in when radio is on and stop working when i change source to cd? which inputs do u prefer sound quality wise, high level from head unit or low level by using loc? i have a 2012 ram 2500 pickup with factory alpin system and touch screen deck. you still need to figure out what’s positive and negative (maybe by testing with the battery popper test with the factory sub reconnected? you can find wiring kits at most stores, ~ for 4 gauge wiring and in-line fuse, you won't need anything larger than 4 gauge. can i hook a sub up to that or do i need to get an aftermarket radio? now that you have your signal and remote turn on figured out, the rest is a pretty standard amp installation. your sub wires to the amp and screw them in. if you're using after market stereo there will be a blue wire coming from the wire harness in the back, mostly these are attached so you have to splice, just snip them and tape off the old end and run your remote wire to your amp. i was thinking of hooking it up to the ignition wire so it is turned on and off with the turn of the key, any problems with this? i think he only does this in cars that have a stock amp and have a direct low noise pre-amp level audio signal. you tap the input side of the amp you dont even need a line out converter you can just splice some rca plugs in and get your signal there. manufacturers offer these, below are a few that offer them:You pick out an enclosure (custom, vehicle specific or universal) that fits your vehicle, add the recommended subs and use an appropiately sized amp that has speaker level inputs. are there wiring harnesses out there that will allow me to do something like this with my factory head unit? it hears your sub and thinks it’s road noise and gets whacked out trying to correct it. it’s a basic set up it should be no problem: you have a stock stereo with left and right channels and a separate positive and negative for each speaker from the stereo? do i put an rca wire to a stock radio? up an amplifier to a stock radio is something that many of our customers do themselves. if you’re missing frequencies below 80 or 60 hertz, then you know there’s probably a stock amp somewhere (which most chrysler’s have) filtering the response. should i connect the remote wire so that i don't have to disconnect it when i turn off the car? and since you have the shelby model, you’ve already got the factory amplifier and a factory sub so you will need to play around with where you get your signal from. for wiring, you’ll need a 4 ga wiring kit, you’ll probably want to get a subwoofer control knob. your converter should come with wiring instructions so you will . it may be different in your truck, so always use a multimeter and battery speaker popper tester to confirm wires are correct. example : if you have a chevy and a sony stereo go to them and tell them you need a chevy to sony wiring harness, they will ask you the year of the vehicle and then go pick it off the shelf, these are usually by the install department behind the counter.  if you were testing all of your wires earlier with a multimeter, you should know which wire is a switched power source. even if i remove the keys and open/close the doors, it all stays on.

how to install an amp to a factory radio - YouTube

- Install Subwoofer and Amp with Factory Stereo?

repeat to the other side and now you have to rca wires to plug into your amp. if i wanted to add a mono amp to power 2 subs that i have, do i just connect the loc into the sub connection coming out of the stock amp? down side to wiring in an amplifier to a stock radio is that most stock stereos are self adjusting, meaning as you turn the volume up on the stereo, internally the stereo is usually keeping the bass level and the same in comparison to other frequencies. you would need to use the remote turn on lead from your aftermarket radio (usually blue with a white stripe) and wire that to the amp turn on lead in the car harness. connecting a line out connector to a factory head unit, it is advisable to use both sets of speaker wires to maintain the left and right stereo effect from modern music. but my question is, i just bought an infinity reference 1600a amp and want to hook it up but not sure what kind of subwoofer i will go good with it ? your car probably has the stock premium system so make sure you read the whole post as the last part of it describes what to do when adding an amp and sub to a stock premium sound system (i’m assuming your car probably has the bose system in it).ñol: conectar un amplificador y un subwoofer a un vehículo, português: conectar um amplificador a uma unidade central com sub, русский: подключить усилитель к сабвуферу и автомагнитоле, italiano: collegare un amplificatore a un subwoofer e all'unità di testa. you need to measure exactly what frequency range you’re getting after the amp by doing frequency sweeps and measuring what actually comes out. i have installed amp and sub to factory sub using line out converter. if you're using your stock head unit you have to purchase a toggle switch that fits your fancy, find a cool place to mount or hide it, from here you want to attach the remote wire to your amp, run it to your toggle, cut it, attach it to one terminal, then attach the end you just cut to another one. you tap the input side of the amp you dont even need a line out converter you can just splice some rca plugs in and get your signal there. have your power wire taunt and find out where your cap. decided to keep my standard head unit because it looks well in the car, is less likely to attract thieves than a shiny after-market unit and it is a factory upgraded unit anyway and i find it gives pretty good audio quality, it works with the steering wheel controls and has bluetooth and aux-in, so an after-market unit wouldn't offer a substantial upgrade. if you bought a kit it comes with an inline fuse, if you didn't, you need to get an inline fuse. i’m not a huge fan of those infinity speakers, but in their defense, you are running them through the stock saab stereo and stock amp, which was specifically designed and tuned for the original saab speakers. have 3 wires at ground position and a blue one, where does it go? just looked up the factory wiring diagram for a 2014 jeep cherokee sport with the basic 6 speaker audio system and it’s actually very simple. i heard those are hi level outputs that’s why they sound the way they do. ondemand lists black as negative and white as positive on the stock subs. or do i need to upgrade to a bigger one before i hook it up? if you do that again (you have two subs, so if you connect them to one terminal on an amp you’re paralleling again) that drops it down to 1 ohm which is very unstable. lot of newer cars have a lot of eq'ing in the factory head unit. (besides, the stock radio didn't have as many options as yours. the question i have is can i run a small 10″ 10 inch mtx off the dvc on the factory sub? you may need to twist and install both power and remote together or you can install it in the slot marked remote.-use one rca to go from your y’d off connection to the line output convertor. annie i have a question if i am connecting a line out converter on a factory rafio but there are no speakers installed the wires are there and i know which ones are going to each speaker how would i find out polarity on the wires. if you dont have the code and you unplug your stereo it will not allow you to listen to it as it will assume it's been stolen. i'm pretty sure it doesn't have any pre-outs; it's the stock system.  this is what is going to feed signal into your amplifier. the stock amp really is not powerful enough nor designed to run the impedance of your mtx. and got a audiopipe rca converter and hooked it up to the rear speaker wires behind the head unit and ran the cable to the amp. hugo – my guess is you’re using a line output converter with signal sensing remote turn on lead and the amp is turning on/off at a different time than the head unit causing a turn on/turn off pop. make sure you always turn off your amp when you leave your car, it will overheat and drain your battery. if it does, that would indicate possibly a poor ground for the amplifier. with the factory premium system, the stock amp is already filtering out the bass to the stock speakers. 1: bits and toolsbits you'll need: low line converter, i got mine on ebay here for £6. do you properly set an eq in a car stereo? when in doubt, i would go straight to the stock sub.  once you hear sound, you need someone else to actually look at the speaker. you want to upgrade your sound system in your car by adding a sub woofer or speakers powered by an auxiliary amplifier without having to get a new head unit then hopefully this should help you :). i have installed an amp and speakers to my factory stereo, the problem i am having now is that every time i shut off my car and turn it back on there is no signal to the back speakers.

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to tune a subwoofer amplifierhow to hook up an amp and sub to a stock stereoarticle - 2 ohm, 1 ohm, 4 ohm, what's the difference? i can tell you the ones we use usually have 4 wires, but they’re usually gray, gray w/black stripe, white, white w/black stripe and that represents left and right front speaker leads. and if you ever did want to change the stereo, keep a look out for alpine and idatalink. every car is different, but i would try it at the factory sub first, see how it sounds and then go from there. first thing you will need, if you don’t already have it, is a line output converter. for example: if your subs are dual 4 ohm voice coil, and you wired them in parallel (positive to positive, negative to negative) that reduces the final impedance to 2 ohms. i have a 2010 camry and put 2 6×9 4-way rockford fosgate punch speakers in the front doors and 2 6×9 2-way rockford fosgate punch speakers in the back panel. if i were to tap into the factory speaker wires without the converter by cutting and splicing a rca cord? annie, i have a 2015 chrysler 300, i installed a kicker kisloc off the 4 factory sub wires in the trunk.’m sure there’s a stock sub if it has a 9 speaker system and yes you need to signal from there and if the amp doesn’t have built in you should use a loc. if it’s enough bass for you, then you could use that amp. if so, you can:-just use a line output convertor like this one. you tap the input side of the amp you dont even need a line out converter you can just splice some rca plugs in and get your signal there.

you are basically parallel-connecting the 4ohm speakers with the low-line converter. whenever you add an amp and sub to a stock system, you have to get your signal for that amp/sub from one (or two) of the stock speakers in the car.  if the speaker is sucking back in, you have positive and negative reversed. you cannot just plug it in; you must charge it first with a resistor, use a 1k ohm resistor because they do not get as hot, it only takes a few seconds to charge, do not do this bare handed. annie, you sure have a pretty good knowledge of stereo’s…good on you., definitely tap your audio signal off any stock subs in the vehicle. xav-ax100 reviewbest double din navigation 2016 reviewbavsound stage one speaker upgradebest double din head unit 2015 dynamat reviewpioneer double din avh-x2700bsalpine ilx-007 reviewapp radio 4 - the good, the bad and the quirky. adding sub woofer you need adapter that converts speaker output into rca connections. usually the stock amp is fiber optic in those cars so you’ll get signal after the amp.

i have a low-level converter here (not that exact brand you're using, but surely they must all behave the same way) that i'm going to be installing in my car, but i didn't want to lose the 4 in-car speakers (regardless of how weak and pathetic they are) in the process. i currently have them connected to the 6x9s in the back but it doesn’t sound to great. did you run the remote to an accessory or ignition wire in the vehicle so the amp goes on and off with the key? i have a feeling that you used a line output convertor that is signal sensing or an amplifier that is signal sensing for the turn on and they’re not always reliable. like newer jeep cherokee’s with premium sound, they cut off the driver side door speaker at 60 hz, but not the passenger side – crazy weird, but you just don’t know until you test it.

have you encountered any issues with your system after doing this? you may want to get your signal from the speaker wires before or after the stock amp which is located underneath the rear deck in the trunk. with the proper parts and correct wiring, this can be an easy way to improve your factory stereo system..everythings working, you just need to mount your converter to something, only really to stop it rattling and tapping when you're driving, then cable tie any loose wires . "low line converter" is a device which will piggy back your speaker outputs from your head unit and convert them to low line rca outputs for your amplifier. factory speaker wires will not be labeled and will not be marked like typical aftermarket wiring harnesses. make sure to get your positive and negative’s correct, none of this stuff will be labeled so make sure you have the right tools to test (multimeter & battery speaker popper tester) and buy yourself a vehicle schematic for your car so you know how to identify everything (check out all data diy).  to make your speaker wire tester, simply take some speaker wire and electrical tape the positive wire to the positive post and the negative wire to the negative end of the battery. have a 2000 saab 9-3 se with the premium sound system, factory amp and two mini subwoofers (kinda blown) but changed one already to an infinity kappa 62. 150 watts will add a nice little bump, but nothing too overpowering or substantial. common values are 2, 4, or 8 ohms, so do your homework beforehand.

i have installed a kit like you are talking about, it was 4 or 5 speaker wires that were spliced total. methods i used will require an understanding of car/car stereo electrics so just be careful so as not to damage your car or yourself :). Step by step how to guide with pictures on how to hook up an amp and sub to a stock stereo. you will need a line output converter as mentioned in this article and definitely an adjustable one like the stinger one that is shown. do i need to keep the factory sub installed and wired up too?

im having trouble with my 2006 chevy equinox can you guide me on how you would hook it up. i’ve seen some that are all digital up until the dsp amp which means you have to get your signal after the amp at the stock sub wires, but i’ve also seen some that have a left and right audio signal at the head unit before the amp. i’m not sure if you meant both of your subs as in stock subs and aftermarket subs or both subs in the two infinity reference subs. some amps offer a direct plug in style specific to their amp, others don’t.“if the speaker is moving out first then back in when you remove the battery, you have positive and negative correct”. the rear 6×9’s are the stock subs in that car so you may either have your positive and negative mixed up (out of phase) which will greatly reduce bass or you have an issue with how you tuned your amp or something else may be going on. when you buy the new wiring harness make sure its the same shape/size as your stereo.  this is not a standard feature of all line output convertors, so depending on which one you use, you may still need to find an accessory power source in the vehicle. with the converter you get a small box with 2 rca's coming out and 4 speaker wires out the other. if you don’t, if you go to a midrange or tweeter, you’ll be feeding your amp midrange or tweeter frequencies and you won’t get any bass. the larger surface area will give you a little more kick. most amplifiers have a signal sensing turn on option these days so the idea is it doesn’t turn the amp on until it senses audio signal coming through the speakers. you’ve got a good installer, he should be able to take apart the knob and install it in a very clean way that looks like it came with the car. what if any options are there for this if using a factory head unit? just hooked mine up in a 2009 chevy silverado but even with the amp on just low frequencies i’m getting vocals out of my subs which makes it sound slightly distorted. or do you prefer i try to purchase maybe a more up to date amp for my optimal set up. therefore when you adjust the bass going to your regular interior speakers, you are also adjusting the signal going to the amp. would want to grab signal from both of the underseat subs if it’s a left and right audio signal. get your capacitor as close to the amp as possible, and use the same ground as you did for the amp. annie i’m hooking up a aftermarket hi-fonics zeus 1200 watt amp and subwoofer in my friends 2003 chrysler 300m special with the premium sound 9 speaker system and everything is hooked up correctly but i’m not getting any bass to the subs i know it has a factory amp located in the back under the deck and it also has the bass knob which is hooked up under the driver side panel under the wheel i don’t believe it has a subwoofer but i didn’t search either lol…. some amps have a line output converter built in so you don’t even need to use rca’s. i’m not trying to do too much to it because it sounds real good. i'm going to try to build a box that fits in the space in the rear where the tire jack equipment is now and put a 10 inch sub in there and mount some momo 6 1/2s in the factory mounts in the front doors and mid panels. also, if you connect the line out converter straight to the subs without an amp, they won't have enough power to function. i think maybe you just mean running along side with rear speakers operating. should i be able to control the bass through the bass adjustment on the factory radio? that amp is not rated as 1 ohm stable, which means you were probably running the amp at 4 ohms in your last set up. or so) would help with the spikes and not render the poor battery empty with every kick of the bass :dyou do realise that it's the battery that charges the capacitor, right? do you realize what the power capacitor does in a car stereo system? you’ll want to check the phase of the stock speaker wires. does it mean for me to attach the cables together by the wires, and then plug it in? after reading a ton i still don’t have a clear solution or a recommended integration devise. Factory head units rarely have RCA or "Low line" outputs which your amplifier will need for it's input signal. just installed a aftermarket radio in my 06 chevy equinox, everything turns on and looks like it is working but no sound is coming out. with any of these processors, if you don’t know how to set them up and install them, you can make it sound even worse than it did before. do i get power to amp subs that aren't playing? whenever you build an enclosure while taking into account the cabin acoustics, cabin size, subwoofer parameters, you can really build an awesome sounding enclosure. i’m misunderstanding your question, but it kind of sounds like you want to daisy chain the mtx off the existing amp/sub – can’t really do that. is the problem when i play music too load the system shuts down.  you will need a multimeter and a double aa battery with some speaker wire hooked up to it in order to test for for speaker wires and the phase. with many aftermarket headunits, they have sub volume control so you can lower the subs volume and turn up the other speakers or vice versa.-replace your existing speakers and cut in/add an additional pair. disconnect the negative terminal from your battery before doing anything with electricity on your car.

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