Can i hook up an amp to a stock radio

Can i hook up an amp to my stock radio

  if you do not, you will not get any bass output. how do i connect my new sub to my old amp? generally the rear speakers have the least eq on them as the higher frequency stuff doesnt matter when the speaker is 4' behind you and firing into the back glass. check out this one from a 2009 bmw 3 series we recently did. you’ve got a good installer, he should be able to take apart the knob and install it in a very clean way that looks like it came with the car. the end of the article i mentioned the option of a separate bass control knob. if i do so do you think the stock amp will do the aftermarket speakers justice? off the top of my head i think it’s under the center console in that year, but not positive. if it’s enough bass for you, then you could use that amp. do i need to pull the rear speaker wires from the deck and wire them into the loc? the shop that did the installation put a converter and they say that everything is fine. i have a poweracoustik gothic series ov2-820 amp and two alpine type e 12″ whole set up is about 10 years old but beats just as good as it did then. take the resistor and place it in the power side of the cap. you’ll also need a hi to lo level convertor (stinger has a nice one sgn13. after reading a ton i still don’t have a clear solution or a recommended integration devise. not all stereo systems can power to 2ohms without simply burning over the circuits. some vehicles may have existing holes filled with a plastic/rubber insert. you for the kind words, i really appreciate the input. i’m sure alpine has the newer f-150’s on their radar and the idatalink kit for the previous f-150’s is top notch oem quality, fit, finish and interface. it may be different in your truck, so always use a multimeter and battery speaker popper tester to confirm wires are correct. annie, i have a 2012 chrysler 300c and i want to hook up a amp and a sub.

i have installed a kit like you are talking about, it was 4 or 5 speaker wires that were spliced total. i’m trying to connect front speakers, sub and amp in my oem unit, but i’ll need 2 sets of rca’s to do this correct? you’re going more for output and sound quality, go for two 12″‘s rated around 300 watts each and they would need to be either single voice coil 4 ohms or dual 2 ohms, also sealed box. can p/up a line out converter that converts speaker level to rca. good luck with your install, it took me a couple of hours, but you won't have to keep stopping to take photos ;)hmm.  line drivers boost the signal from the stereo which can give you a lot more output. annie i’m hooking up a aftermarket hi-fonics zeus 1200 watt amp and subwoofer in my friends 2003 chrysler 300m special with the premium sound 9 speaker system and everything is hooked up correctly but i’m not getting any bass to the subs i know it has a factory amp located in the back under the deck and it also has the bass knob which is hooked up under the driver side panel under the wheel i don’t believe it has a subwoofer but i didn’t search either lol…. to know what you’re dealing with exactly, i would recommend buying a vehicle wire schematic specifically for your truck from all data diy. it works »new instructable »adding rcas to a standard car head unit. if you do that, you’ll also need 1 additional set of rca’s, assuming the amp kit you buy comes with one (there is an in and an out on the control knob). your rear speakers are on the rear deck, so its easy to tag on to your speaker wires there. it hears your sub and thinks it’s road noise and gets whacked out trying to correct it. i heard those are hi level outputs that’s why they sound the way they do. as i say its not really influencing the signal to the rear speakers, i doubt it makes any difference you could detect with your ears even at high volume. your only wiring options are running each subs voice coils series, then parallel the subs for a final 4 ohm load or wire the voice coils parallel, then parallel the subs for a final 1 ohm load. tape or heatshrink tubingwire to extend the piggyback cables on the converter (i used around 20 awg)soldering iron to solder extension wire if neededscotch blocks i ended up using 6cable ties not essential but handy for keeping wiring neat. everything works fine when i turn my radio on and off the amp goes off and on…. read many of the comments left by other users and all the great solutions you left them with and i’m sure using a little common sense i could figure it out myself but, you have more experience than i. your sub wires to the amp and screw them in. then when the fix and the twk comes out from jl you can clean it up even more. honda accords are equipped with a noise cancellation microphone in the cabin – it needs to be disconnected, that will fix your problem! you’re simply tapping into those wires to get your audio feed, it won’t effect how those rear speakers are functioning in any way.« previousnext »view all steps download

seems you know your stuff maybe you can help me out with this problem? would look it up on my mechanic software (ondemand – subscription based), but if that’s not an option, you can always purchase schematic access for your own car from all data diy. problem you may encounter when wiring an amp and sub into a premium factory sound system is the signal level may be too high or too low. then we test the outputs to verify whether it’s full range or cut off. the stock amp really is not powerful enough nor designed to run the impedance of your mtx. annie, i have a 2015 chrysler 300, i installed a kicker kisloc off the 4 factory sub wires in the trunk.

i thought about this but was worried about losing sound quality and i wasn't sure how well it would work with my 5-channel amp.

Can i hook up an amp to a stock radio

mine only comes on when the acc +12v circuit is activated with a click on the key turning . that amp is not rated as 1 ohm stable, which means you were probably running the amp at 4 ohms in your last set up. have measured the space where the current amp is (center of the dash at the bottom, behind a storage compartment) and i may need to do a little trimming to make an aftermarket 5-channel fit. i am very familiar with audio systems and have performed all installs on my personal vehicles.ñol: conectar un amplificador y un subwoofer a un vehículo, português: conectar um amplificador a uma unidade central com sub, русский: подключить усилитель к сабвуферу и автомагнитоле, italiano: collegare un amplificatore a un subwoofer e all'unità di testa. subs are dual 4 ohm which is not ideal when you’re running two subs and using a mono amp. try turning the amp down and your stereo up

i've had no issues at all, the converter doesn't put a load worth considering on the rear speaker circuits as it's only really listening to the signal, it draws all its power separately from a 12v feed. number 9, it says twine the remote wire with the power wire before inserting in the power slot for amp.. can i still add the sub to the stock radio?’s a nice amp, it’s 600 watts rms at 2 ohms and it’s a mono amp. i already had mine but i certainly wouldnt pay more than £5 for the dealer to look it up on a database. i do like the audio control acubass loc for digital bass restoration. so if you get your signal from the front speakers, (positive & negative, left and right) use the front rca on the convertor and likewise if you decide to use the rear speakers for signal. this question (or a similar one) is answered twice in this section, please click here to let us know. there is only front and rear speaker input but the amp also supplies a woofer? i have read that the amp also powers the door speakers. was wondering how difficult it is to add a sub to a factory car radio? the power cable from the battery and attach your amp's power wire to the power cable for your vehicle; leave it its a 2012 ram 3500 with a line out converter and aftermarkyamp already in place. so i have a 2008 mitsubishi outlander ls, 6 standard speaker with radio 140 watts. thank you for your time and consideration to replying to this question. did you run the remote to an accessory or ignition wire in the vehicle so the amp goes on and off with the key? we really like jl’s new processors the fix-86 and twk-88. if we have a factory sub we typically tie the positives together and tap into the single positive lead of the sub and negatives together and tap into the single negative lead of the sub. there is a stock amplifier in a car, it is filtering what frequencies get played through what speakers. lot of newer cars have a lot of eq'ing in the factory head unit. uswho we areadvertisecontactjobshelpfind usfacebookyoutubetwitterpinterestgoogle+resourcesfor teachersartists in residencegift premium accountforumsanswerssitemapterms of service|privacy statement|legal notices & trademarks|mobile site© 2016 autodesk, inc. i’ll be using a loc to provide an rca feed to a mono block amp. up an amplifier to a stock radio is something that many of our customers do themselves. it has the entune system — non-jbl and no subwoofer but with eight speakers — but it sounded pretty disappointing. you may need to do an audio processor that sums the frequencies off the stock amp prior to your aftermarket amplifier so you can get a true full range signal. but when i shut my car off and then turn it back on my amp comes up with the red light protection error every time after.  the reason for this is the stock amplifier will be crossed over at a certain frequency. the infinity subs would be wired to your amp just like any other setup. comments for “how to hook up an amp and sub to a stock stereo. whenever you build an enclosure while taking into account the cabin acoustics, cabin size, subwoofer parameters, you can really build an awesome sounding enclosure. ideally, we don’t really want to send a lot of bass to them now that you have a subwoofer. but now when you adjust the bass, you’re not hearing a difference in your sub. i know for sure that the speakers were on the rear deck in the 1989 maxima we had, but definitely not on the 2000. you could grab your audio signal right at the stock subwoofer in the cadillac. cammy, you really should get signal from both rear speakers as your factory stereo is putting out a stereo signal to the rear speakers and the amp wants to see stereo mixed into mono. i removed the factory sub and just ran rca’s from the loc to my amp, which is powering a 12″ dvc pioneer sub (wired for 4ohms at the amp). it listens for “road noise” and tries to play that same frequency out of phase to cancel it out. am hooking up after market amp in 2008 range rover and have loc converter got to factory sub but has four wires red and black also green and grey on the other side which ones do i hook up to to get bass for after market subs. that’s not it, let me know:-what kind of oem system (premium like bose? just had a kicker zx400 amp and 2 12″ subs installed on a 2012 jeep wrangler with the premium sound system with amp. to all authors for creating a page that has been read 786,284 times. keys to remove your head unit, you may not need these depending on the manufacturer and fitting type in your carmultimeter. you’ll want to check the phase of the stock speaker wires. problem is i don’t know which wires i should tap into.

can i hook up subs to a stock radio

Can i hook up an amp to a stock radio +how to install an amp to a factory radio - YouTube

Can i hook up subwoofers to a stock radio

but you’ll have to see, if it’s not fiber optic then there will be a full range signal coming from the head unit, you could use that. do i got to do to hook up a high powered amp like a 5000 watt to my stock head unit, it has navigation on it., saw this comment after i responded to the other one. It is very important to match the RMS of your subs to your amp. im having trouble with my 2006 chevy equinox can you guide me on how you would hook it up. do more research, unfortunately i don’t have time to explain how to do your whole install, but do not power the speakers off the stock head unit and the aftermarket amp. next how do i connect the wires in any case? does it mean for me to attach the cables together by the wires, and then plug it in? if you bought a kit it comes with an inline fuse, if you didn't, you need to get an inline fuse. is our processor of choice over jl audio cleansweep (still good for basic stock stereo especially if can get pre-amp signal), the audison bit one, ms8, 360, zapco etc.’m sure there’s a stock sub if it has a 9 speaker system and yes you need to signal from there and if the amp doesn’t have built in you should use a loc. thing with any of these processors is you really need to set them up properly, it’s easy to screw it up. you can do that by wiring the aftermarket head unit’s remote turn on (blue with white stripe) to the stock power antenna lead (solid blue if using aftermarket wire harness) and see if that does the trick. so whenever i sell an amp and sub to be installed with a stock system i always sell a bass knob. there should be a stock amp, but off the top of my head, i’m not sure where it is located. annie, you sure have a pretty good knowledge of stereo’s…good on you. most amplifiers have their own optional plug in style bass knob accessory, but if yours doesn’t, you could use a universal bass knob like this from pac audio. best way to do this would be to use a processor that corrects the audio coming out of the head unit before it gets fed into the amp. example : if you have a chevy and a sony stereo go to them and tell them you need a chevy to sony wiring harness, they will ask you the year of the vehicle and then go pick it off the shelf, these are usually by the install department behind the counter. rear speakers are on the rear deck, so its easy to tag on to your speaker wires there. me ur email address and i can get u a diagram. the scion’s stock sub is wired in parallel to the front speakers, chances are you’re just not powering up the stock amplifier which is only for the subwoofer. i tapped into the rear speakers before the aftermarket bose amplifier because ive heard tapping into the lines after the amp will really destroy the quality of sound. or do i need to upgrade to a bigger one before i hook it up?

you are basically parallel-connecting the 4ohm speakers with the low-line converter. they are powered by: punch 400 watt 4-channel amplifier and punch 500 watt mono amplifier pbr500. for example: if your subs are dual 4 ohm voice coil, and you wired them in parallel (positive to positive, negative to negative) that reduces the final impedance to 2 ohms. also, the 400 watt amp has 150watts rms x 1 channel @ 4 ohms(bridged), and my sub is 4 ohms, 300 watts rms(1300 watts max). your car probably has the stock premium system so make sure you read the whole post as the last part of it describes what to do when adding an amp and sub to a stock premium sound system (i’m assuming your car probably has the bose system in it). car speakers for basswhat should you buy first when you want a good car stereo system? remote antenna power wire is responsible for the antenna coming out of a car with a retractable antenna. which inputs do u prefer sound quality wise, high level from head unit or low level by using loc? just not sure if the head unit is sending the same signal to the front and the back? we normally take it apart and mount the box behind a panel so all you see is the knob itself.: best car speakers for bass - car stereo reviews & news + tuning, wiring, how to guide's. how to test the speakers you’re tapping for signal? paras, that means you’ve got one of your positives and negatives mixed up when you tapped your speaker signal from the car.. what are the adverse effect this can have on the electronics and warranty? hugo – my guess is you’re using a line output converter with signal sensing remote turn on lead and the amp is turning on/off at a different time than the head unit causing a turn on/turn off pop. for lack of a better term, the loc is just “reading” the audio information off of those tapped leads. articlehow to wire an amp to a sub and head unit. or did you cut and splice rca cables into the stock speaker wire? so you can (and are supposed to) have your loc installed along side your rear speakers.

i have a low-level converter here (not that exact brand you're using, but surely they must all behave the same way) that i'm going to be installing in my car, but i didn't want to lose the 4 in-car speakers (regardless of how weak and pathetic they are) in the process. parallel has a whole other meaning in car audio and maybe that’s why you’re having a hard time finding an answer the loc has separate leads for left and right, positive and negative. it’s helpful in any stock audio system that is self attenuating. disconnect the negative terminal from your battery before doing anything with electricity on your car.  they do this to prevent you from blowing up the stock speakers. repeat to the other side and now you have to rca wires to plug into your amp. i have a 2010 camry and put 2 6×9 4-way rockford fosgate punch speakers in the front doors and 2 6×9 2-way rockford fosgate punch speakers in the back panel.

Can u hook up an amp to a stock radio

in the mean time, the best processor on the market (in my opinion) is the alpine pxa-h800. we’re really just using the processor as the head unit, but we have had success using this processor in amplified stock audio systems (that have can bus and you have to sum your signals and get them after the stock amp). there is also no remote wire in the harness, how does my am know when to turn on? to know how to hook up an amp and sub to a stock stereo? with any of these processors, if you don’t know how to set them up and install them, you can make it sound even worse than it did before. annie, am trying to install 2500w 5 channel acoustik amp along withh 400 w 12″ pioneer 4ohm dvc sub to factory system in my honda accord. like newer jeep cherokee’s with premium sound, they cut off the driver side door speaker at 60 hz, but not the passenger side – crazy weird, but you just don’t know until you test it.

thanks in advance if you can help


very cool, but one contemplation here.  if this is the case and you wire in your line output converter to the rear door speakers, you may only be getting frequencies of 80 hz and up, not exactly what you’re looking for when it comes to bass.  speaker wires tend to be grouped together, so look for what may be pairs to start testing. you can get a full range signal behind the head unit you should get your signal at the stock sub.; connect the rem wire to a fuse that only has power when the car is on. sounds so much better that it is actually kind of amazing to me. charles – whenever you have an stock amplified system, most of the the time the stock amp has internal crossovers and it’s directing the lower bass frequencies to the stock subwoofer and upper and mid range to the appropriate sized speakers. and if you ever did want to change the stereo, keep a look out for alpine and idatalink. can i hook a sub up to that or do i need to get an aftermarket radio? 12v power and ground connectors to the wires will reduce circuit resistance and make your power cleaner, giving you better sound.  you do not want the amp wired up to constant power as this will drain your car battery. if you do decide to upgrade speakers and you want to power them off the stock stereo, make sure they are efficient and while you’re in there install dynamat as that will really help to provide a better cabinet for the speakers to operate in. but when balance is even, i don’t get any bass. if so, you can:-just use a line output convertor like this one. it to a fuse connected to ignition turn on, like your accessory power fuse. you have determined the proper speaker wires for the rear speakers, you can tap into them and hook them up to the line output converter. everything works fine but sometimes i get a loud humming sound from the subwoofer. i had this same system installed on a 2009 gmc sierra and was able to control the bass through the factory radio bass controls but nor sure why it doesnt control it on the jeep? anne i have a 2014 jeep cherokee sport and the jeep came with no amp or subs. s-line and it has the premium bose system with a stock subwoofer. the sub cuts on and off at high volume when i use the auxiliary cord to phone. annie, i have an 06 maxima with the factory premium bose sound system. you want to upgrade your sound system in your car by adding a sub woofer or speakers powered by an auxiliary amplifier without having to get a new head unit then hopefully this should help you :). hope that’s a start for you, but do some more homework before you feel comfortable tackling the project. or do you prefer i try to purchase maybe a more up to date amp for my optimal set up. the only way to get them to work is by unplugging the rca’s to the amp and plug them back in, then it plays…. my main concern is controlling the volume to a subwoofer. i recently did this in a subaru with morel tempo speakers (just did speakers and dynamat off basic stock stereo) and was pleasantly surprised at the justice the stock stereo did for those speakers. to wire up an aftermarket stereo when your stock harness has been cuteasy way to identify positive and negative on factory speaker wiringwhat does it mean to bridge an amp? all of those things effect the sound quality and output you will achieve. if you're using after market stereo there will be a blue wire coming from the wire harness in the back, mostly these are attached so you have to splice, just snip them and tape off the old end and run your remote wire to your amp. personally, i’ve never used the app for that, we have a regular old oscilloscope for tests like that, but the app has that feature as well (may need additional interface, not sure). i’m adding subs and an amp with a pac lp7-2.’m wanting to install aftermarket amp/sub/speakers to my stock radio.? and while feeding the amp output back to speakers n subs we connect speaker wires to each speaker leads, so whats the difference between amp input signal n amp output signal, its confusing me as for eg. have connect a speaker to rca with remote turn on/off. you want an amp more powerful than your sub, because you don't want your sub to clip. you tap the input side of the amp you dont even need a line out converter you can just splice some rca plugs in and get your signal there..couldve sworn i just worked on an 01 the other day and the speakers were in the rear deck. all of my original speakers work still, whether the sub is on or not. i’m curious, when you stay stock subwoofers, where were they located? if the signal going into the amp is distorted, that could be what’s causing it shut down at higher volumes. you're using an after market head unit, go to an electronics store's stereo department and ask for a wiring harness from your car to the after market head unit.

Can you hook up an amp to a stock radio

ms8, sum8, 360, but one, front row etc,, i just need clean signal. they talked about this very problem at ces recently and they are in the process of designing a new product which tackles this exact issue. amp is already installed and i just bought a new sub.  once you know what is not speaker wires, you can start testing pairs of wires. a bridged amp runs at a different impedance than the same amp in unabridged mode.. do you know if the stock speaker have connection for a sub? i have a infinity reference 1600a mono-amp and 2x infinity reference 1262w 12-inch that i used in my previous car and i have all the wiring as well (looking to upgrade in the future but its what i have for now :d). if you dont have it then you should acquire it from your car manufacturers customer service phone number, your local dealer or the internet. the sub would be a long way from the amp but i could fit a decent size box with a port in the location in the back. with the proper parts and correct wiring, this can be an easy way to improve your factory stereo system. make sure the fuse you choose is only active when the car is on. bass levels vary so widely from recording to recording, it’s really helpful to have. you could always use a universal bass knob like this, but you’ll need an extra set of rca cables for that feature. i recently was stumped with my lastest install in a 2012 ram pick up truck..but what i wanted to know is how do i get power to the subs do i need a a line out converter or loc or do i need to tap into the factory amp somewhere please help i’ve been trying to figure out the nonsense all day and i’m a lil frustrated. i’m misunderstanding your question, but it kind of sounds like you want to daisy chain the mtx off the existing amp/sub – can’t really do that. you still need to run a remote turn on lead to the amp from an ignition power source (unless you bought a signal sensing loc with remote turn on lead). his head unit doesnt put out more power than his amp is capable of taking through the rca input. if they sound better playing alone, you’ve got your phase screwed up somewhere between those speakers (one is out of phase). thanks for the commentmore commentsabout this instructable 279,426views77favoriteslicense:g199follow14more by g199:  add instructable to: contest grouprelatedinstalling subwoofers into a avalancheby traeb3diy home stereo with a car amplifier. there was no change in sound/volume from radio to cd..I just purchased an 2006 infiniti g35x sedan with the bose radio, was wondering if anyone would know if it has preamp out? i have a feeling that you used a line output convertor that is signal sensing or an amplifier that is signal sensing for the turn on and they’re not always reliable. if you wanted more output, you’re already wired up so at that point you could just buy a more powerful amp and swap it out.-use two y adapters (2 males to one female) to y off the 4 channels on the amp to a 2 channel connection. if you wanted to build your own box, we like bass box pro software. are there wiring harnesses out there that will allow me to do something like this with my factory head unit?)i was really surprised at how good the sound quality is, i only run a sub through it but i tested some speakers and i couldn't pick up any signal loss, if the radio isn't as complicated it should only really make it easier to work out which wires are which, but obviously don't chop into them if you're not sure. the place where i got the amp installed said that my oem unit cant be amped. is going to be, cut the wire, and attach the battery cable to the battery. tap signal from rear speaker n again we feed the amp output back to same spot. (besides, the stock radio didn't have as many options as yours. llots of bass despite no subwoofer and pretty impressive highs, too. i will be running video (movies and ps2) at times and tunes at other times. if you do that again (you have two subs, so if you connect them to one terminal on an amp you’re paralleling again) that drops it down to 1 ohm which is very unstable. amps have high level inputs but most of the time i prefer to use a line out converter. "low line converter" is a device which will piggy back your speaker outputs from your head unit and convert them to low line rca outputs for your amplifier. with many aftermarket headunits, they have sub volume control so you can lower the subs volume and turn up the other speakers or vice versa. you need to do is get a rca wire, cut in half, strip both the outer and inner wire., definitely tap your audio signal off any stock subs in the vehicle. where is the best place to hook up a line output converter when adding an amp for a sub? it is the remote wire what is a proper spot to put it? factory speaker wires will not be labeled and will not be marked like typical aftermarket wiring harnesses. also i’m installing a fi sp4 15″ in a custom built enclosure by fat box powered by a sundown 2500d. my question is should run the line level in from the front speakers or the back speakers as they are the same size speakers. i’m assuming that’s how you had it wired in your last car if it was working well, just thought you should know that those subs can handle a bit more than your amp is currently supplying. back the rca cables and it stops and returns to normal. you can find wiring kits at most stores, ~ for 4 gauge wiring and in-line fuse, you won't need anything larger than 4 gauge. i would use jl audio’s dealer locator and try to find a more competent installer. when in doubt, i would go straight to the stock sub.

Life with a factory stereo

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: PAC Premium Amplifier Add-On/replacement Radio

you enjoy this blog and want to show some monetary appreciation to car stereo chick, kindly leave her a tip! in addition, i have a punch single p3 12″ shallow loaded enclosure in the trunk. what can i do to eliminate the high frequencies coming out of the subs. you'll need:low line converter, i got mine on ebay here for £6. have your power wire taunt and find out where your cap. i highly recommend buying a wire schematic for your truck from all data diy so you know exactly what you’re working with and can see exactly which options you’ve got.'t forget to test your rem wire before you assume it works. do i have to splice the loc on both subs or just one? if you want to get involved, click one of these buttons! don’t know what kind of loc you are using, it should have come with instructions that label the wire colors. and/or is there any resource i can go to online to find out what i can or cannot add to that system?! i have a 2010 jeep wrangler and im trying to install a 1000watt pioneer amp and 2 12″ inch pioneer subs using the stock head unit that came with the jeep. that’s how most of these newer premium chrysler/dodge/jeep/ram audio systems are these days. get your capacitor as close to the amp as possible, and use the same ground as you did for the amp. two questions: it is okay to run a loc in parallel with the rear speakers…right? the gain all the way down, start playing music and turn it up to where you usually listen, where the mids sound good. keep in mind you’re only getting your audio signal from those stock subs, you will still need to run traditional power wire from the battery, ground the amp, etc like any other install. din head unit buying guidebest car amplifieroem integration solutions for aftermarket soundjeep wrangler stereo upgraderadar detectors - escort 9500ci vs k40why did my speakers blow?“if the speaker is moving out first then back in when you remove the battery, you have positive and negative correct”. was also wanted to know if it would be beneficial to put in a digital bass reconstruction box in line with this? so i took it back — they swapped the component cables on the amp under the seat and all is well, except, now the truck acts like the key is in the accessory position all the time. i am not getting a full/mid tune out of my speaker.  if you just tap into a pair of speaker wires and happen to get some sound, you may not necessarily have positive and negative correct. the radio stays on, as does the clock and the 12v ports. (03 jetta wolfsburg edition) i have a line out converter and i know which wires are which but i’m not sure how to wire it in. so if you don't have the remote wire from the after market head unit to turn on the amp when ever you turn on the stereo you have to turn your amp on manually. a defective factory navigation radio in a 2012 f-150 with kenwood’s ddx9902s.? there are no speakers on the rear deck, all of the speakers are in the doors.  it is very important to get the phase of the wiring correct. i’m not sure if you meant both of your subs as in stock subs and aftermarket subs or both subs in the two infinity reference subs. i’ve seen some that are all digital up until the dsp amp which means you have to get your signal after the amp at the stock sub wires, but i’ve also seen some that have a left and right audio signal at the head unit before the amp. hope that make sense and i understood your question correctly!  you may have to get your signal before or after the amplifier; every car is different and you just need to try it to really see what will work best for your vehicle and application. and you’ll need some speaker wire, check the amp kit, many come with it, but not all of them. you tap the input side of the amp you dont even need a line out converter you can just splice some rca plugs in and get your signal there.. previous comment disappeared :s take two:

thank you :)

i may not need to stop to take pictures of the process, but in addition to the rca outputs i also need to create and install a 12v-5v converter, a 7-port powered usb hub, headphone-radio transmitter, and other assorted goodies.  you will need a multimeter and a double aa battery with some speaker wire hooked up to it in order to test for for speaker wires and the phase. that’s okay, you can still use it, just use one side, either the front or the rear. meaning if the bass level if your stock stereo stays steady output, despite raising the volume from low to high, if it stays pretty even through out it’s probably self attenuating. i'm pretty sure it doesn't have any pre-outs; it's the stock system. then run the remote wire back to the amp and cut it there leaving a foot or so of extra cable. decided to keep my standard head unit because it looks well in the car, is less likely to attract thieves than a shiny after-market unit and it is a factory upgraded unit anyway and i find it gives pretty good audio quality, it works with the steering wheel controls and has bluetooth and aux-in, so an after-market unit wouldn't offer a substantial upgrade. looks like that’s a 4 channel line output convertor which is why it’s confusing you. it possible that this car cannot be fitted with and amp and sub? you might want to would wait to see what jl comes up with, but it may be another 9 months or so before they release anything. figure out where you're going to place the amp, put the beginning of your power (red) wire there and give it about a foot of wire extra, then begin to hide and run the power wire to under the hood.  that would be the proper place to wire in the remote turn on lead. gauge, 2 gauge, 8 gauge, 0 gauge - how to choose the right sized power and ground for your amphp filter, lp filter, what do crossovers do? you may want to get your signal from the speaker wires before or after the stock amp which is located underneath the rear deck in the trunk. it make any difference if u wire the line out converter to one of the rear speaker wires or is the loc best been wired up directly from the sterio?

Pump Up the Volume of Your Car's Stereo System by Adding an

i connect the line out converter of my car stereo to the sub instead of taking apart my dash unit? for this vehicle where would i get the best frequency results from? should i tap into wires that input into the bose amp or the output wires and which colors. on what kind of line output convertor you’re using. if you need to drill a hole in the fire wall, be careful not to hit anything on the other side and be sure the drilled hole will not cut through your power line. it helps the system cope with the spikes in power required to punch the bass, by reducing the load on the alternator and car battery. usually what will cause this is a poor ground to the amplifiers or it’s an issue with where and how they got their audio signal for the amps.'s makeexplore contestsclassespublishfeatured:3d printing classarduinosewingwith instructables you can share what you make with the world, and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts. will my new subwoofer be limited to the same range as my stock one? important tip here, if you are adding the amp and sub to the stock deck, you must get your signal using that hi to lo level converter at the stock subs. methods i used will require an understanding of car/car stereo electrics so just be careful so as not to damage your car or yourself :). so until you change the stereo, you won’t really get the full potential of the speakers. this happens when i switch the car off or when i open the door. you definitely need to get your signal from there and usually you have to get the signal after the amp as it’s usually a data signal before the amp. A sub woofer or two in a vehicle can make the world of difference in listening to music. try switching the source for your remote turn on lead to a different accessory power source. one more thing, i have never heard of that brand and can’t find a darned thing about them or any specs on them. you need to measure exactly what frequency range you’re getting after the amp by doing frequency sweeps and measuring what actually comes out. wires are not grounded properly, check to make sure the surface is clean, unpainted metal. don't guess the code as you usually only get a few attempts before it will permanently lock it'self! me ur email address and i can get u a diagram. double din navigation 2016 – kenwood dnx893s, alpine ine-w967hd or pioneer avic-8200nex? connecting a line out connector to a factory head unit, it is advisable to use both sets of speaker wires to maintain the left and right stereo effect from modern music. you would just need to hook that up to the remote turn on lead from your aftermarket head unit (blue with white stripe). should be rca female plugs on your amp, and on the new sub-box enclosure, there should be another set of rca plugs or clamps. sure that you use cables with the correct resistance (or impedance) for your setup. someone told me to use the subwoofer outputs but there is no subwoofer in my car and if there are wires for one i don’t know which are which. so i had the store last week install a 600w kicker four channel amp, all new kicker ks speakers everywhere except the dash and some dynamat in the front doors. should i be able to control the bass through the bass adjustment on the factory radio? if you have a 2 ohm sub and a 4 ohm amp it won't produce enough power to properly power the sub. i’m set to take it back next wednesday but if you could offer your thoughts on what’s going on there, i’d appreciate it and would love to have a sound theory to tell the installer. but my question is, i just bought an infinity reference 1600a amp and want to hook it up but not sure what kind of subwoofer i will go good with it ? check the frequency response and make sure they are playing full range and not crossed over, you can play a frequency sweep through the front speakers, then the rear and measure the response. you would need to use the remote turn on lead from your aftermarket radio (usually blue with a white stripe) and wire that to the amp turn on lead in the car harness. i’m trying to use scosche’s fai-3a to get my signal from the stock head unit…. its the poer going in is to high for the amp and results in a humming sound for the extra power. im not sure why this is happening i read the directions,followed step by step. there, i just bought a 2003 cadillac cts and i wanted to know if its possible to hook up a sub and amp to the stock stereo,if i can how do i do it? at the back of your stereo there is most likely one big plug which incorporates all of the inputs and outputs to and from . sub woofer or two in a vehicle can make the world of difference in listening to music. i'm going to try to build a box that fits in the space in the rear where the tire jack equipment is now and put a 10 inch sub in there and mount some momo 6 1/2s in the factory mounts in the front doors and mid panels.  if you were to get the right rear speaker positive and negative correct, but the left rear speaker positive and negative reversed, you will have effectively canceled out your bass frequencies.… i am installing a 500watt amp to 2 12′ mtx in my 2010 ford f-150 where is the easy spot to get to speakers for converter. it sounds great, but could it have been better if i had used the rear channels? im thinking this will be a fairly easy task since i have everything except the loc. can that feature be turned off on the stock head unit? i have installed an amp and speakers to my factory stereo, the problem i am having now is that every time i shut off my car and turn it back on there is no signal to the back speakers. the larger surface area will give you a little more kick. by the way, it would sound way better with an aftermarket head unit, just an fyi. i like to use either this one from pac or this one from jl (which also includes a line driver).

- Install Subwoofer and Amp with Factory Stereo?

you're going to use your stock stereo and run the amp from there you want to buy a line out converter ~. i don't want to redo the whole thing, but would like to add a sub ( and amp? 1: bits and toolsbits you'll need: low line converter, i got mine on ebay here for £6. you’ll also have to find an accessory power source for the remote turn on lead which is explained in the post, you may find more assistance in how to test various wires in this post.-where did you get your accessory for the remote turn on? far as a loc goes, i like adjustable ones such as the pac lp7-2. pick up an "all in one" powered bass enclosure, since most will have level speaker inputs. all i will need is a loc with bass control, to tap into the rear stock sub and wire the amp kit like normal right? did you have the stock jbl amplifier in that car? should i connect the remote wire so that i don't have to disconnect it when i turn off the car? manufacturers offer these, below are a few that offer them:You pick out an enclosure (custom, vehicle specific or universal) that fits your vehicle, add the recommended subs and use an appropiately sized amp that has speaker level inputs. you want to upgrade your sound system in your car by adding a sub woofer or speakers powered by an auxiliary amplifier without having to get a new head unit then hopefully this should help you :) I decided to keep my standard head unit because it looks well in the car, is less likely to attract thieves than a shiny after-market unit and it is a factory upgraded unit anyway and i find it gives pretty good audio quality, it works with the steering wheel controls and has bluetooth and aux-in, so an after-market unit wouldn't offer a substantial upgrade. you will need a line output converter as mentioned in this article and definitely an adjustable one like the stinger one that is shown. they’re designed for the vehicle; the car cabin acoustics are taken into consideration along with the capabilities and parameters of the subwoofer. the amp where you want it, then attach the ground (black or brown) wire to the amp.?I had the same question about installing a sub to factory radio, my wife has an 05 altima with a factory bose 6 speaker system that i really don't won't tear into, and it sounds pretty good, i would just like to alitte low end maybe a 8'' or maybe a 10'', not looking for a ground pounder , there is what looks to be a small amp mounted under the back deck lid, could i just tie in to the wiring harness there? i wired the amp to the battery grounded it, wired the remote on to a 12v source in the fuse box. this is the type of information that should be shared around the web. take the outer cover off your back speakers and connect the two ends of the speaker wire to the stock speakers, one end to possitive and one to negative. i’m not trying to do too much to it because it sounds real good. some amps have a line output converter built in so you don’t even need to use rca’s. if there’s only one stock sub and one pair of wires, you can double up the wire connections so you are creating a left and right channel for the loc (run two positive taps, two negative taps for the left and right +/- connections on the loc).  if you use the pac lp7-2 with signal sensing remote turn on, the line output convertor itself will give you a remote turn on lead.  you will want to make sure you are not sending power to any wires other than speaker wires, so that is where your multimeter comes in handy. and i already have an auxiliary connection but it can only be used to play music from ipod, phone or any 3..I want to add a sub to my is 250 awd but it came with nav and you can not replaace the radio with out loseing your hvac controls. an loc (line out converter) that will pick up your signal for the amp through the rca. remove the wire and find the correct remote amp, then turn on wire or ignition wire to the vehicle. a jl w3 or w6 would be nice, an alpine type r, the hertz energy series or hi-energy series subs are great sounding too.  this is what is going to feed signal into your amplifier. im replacing them with two sets of cdt hd 6 1/2s ran off of a alpine pdx. your converter should come with wiring instructions so you will . back a little bit of the wire and hook each end of the battery tester up to a pair of wires. factory stereos (including many premium models) do not have a separate subwoofer control adjustment. if they sound good together, but sound crappy when mixed with the rest of the car speakers, you’ve got them both out of phase with the rest of the system. by continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookie policy. that’s how we have it set up in our honda element. getting this wrong may well overheat cables or even blow the amp itself so make sure your cables and setup are matched.. i will need major help if possible to get a diagram as how i can implement that with the stock radio. converter i bought also gives you a "remote wire" output which tells your amp when the car is on so it doesn't drain your battery, if you get a converter without this option you can just join the remote wire to the acc circuit of your car, or the 12v circuit with a switch (you will have to remember to turn it off though or your amp will drain your battery). so definitely get the loc and a separate amp to power your mtx – you could also get an amp that has the loc built into it too, but either way definitely just grab your signal from the stock sub, but use that signal to feed a dedicated amp to power your mtx.  this can be pretty frustrating as it means your subwoofer level may stay the same regardless of you turning up the volume knob on the stereo. 150 watts will add a nice little bump, but nothing too overpowering or substantial.  if the speaker is moving in and out, you have positive and negative correct. i guess in this case they used a separate line output converter since you mentioned they used rca cables. that you have your speaker wires figured out, we can move on to the remote turn on lead.’m wondering how to connect my amp to my stock premium 6 deck.'ve got a 2000 toyota minivan that i want to use the head unit (6 cd changer am/fm [preamp onhly] by jbl) for the appearance of stock (so nobody jacks my system - live in a rental community w/high crime) but repace the stock amplifier with a 5 channel amp. i have a 2006 cadillac sts with premium bose sounds system and factory sub in the back but i have just purchased the vehicle and haven’t had much time to ravage through and find out if it has a factory amp as well or where it is located.  these line output converters, also known as hi to low level converters, are typically wired into the rear speaker wires of a vehicle.

Scosche Line-Out Converter with Bass Control -

installer thinks a remote turn on signal is feeding back from the amp. with the converter you get a small box with 2 rca's coming out and 4 speaker wires out the other. so i had the remote starter done by local shop and the audio done by a big box company. to Wire an Amp to a Sub and Head Unit. then attach the other ends of the speaker wire to each end of the stripped rca's. according to crutchfield, if you don't have a bose system, the rear speakers are in the doors.-replace your existing speakers and cut in/add an additional pair. if you’re missing frequencies below 80 or 60 hertz, then you know there’s probably a stock amp somewhere (which most chrysler’s have) filtering the response. all that stuff plus the amplifier, power capacitor, noise filter and extra speakers will probably take me years :)a power cap? other possibility here is your phase is incorrect, are you sure you got positive and negative correct? it has 6 channel audio in which can be assigned as front (left & right), rear (left & right) sub (mono), center channel (mono). i don’t see how the amp could have been back-feeding and keeping the accessory on because that’s how the amp knows to turn on (if they didn’t use a signal sensing turn on).  if the speaker is sucking back in, you have positive and negative reversed. i have installed amp and sub to factory sub using line out converter. of whether you choose to go with a self powered line level subwoofer or with a custom enclosure powered by an external amplifier (w/line level inputs) you can still use your stock (oem) radio. most cases, you will want to wire the line output converter in behind the stereo. do you realize what the power capacitor does in a car stereo system? to know how to hook up an amp and sub to a stock stereo? also, on your aftermarket amp, make sure the low pass filter is on. for best results, please make sure your browser is accepting cookies. stereo keys to remove your head unit, you may not need these depending on . keith, you can grab that signal right at the stock bose subwoofer. and i'm having trouble getting my power wire from the battery in my mk6 fiesta to the boot, any ideas? ondemand lists black as negative and white as positive on the stock subs. i have a bass knob already that connects to the kicker amp that i want to install. A "Low line converter" is a device which will piggy back your speaker outputs from your head unit and convert them to Low Line RCA outputs for your amplifier . would want to grab signal from both of the underseat subs if it’s a left and right audio signal. i think maybe you just mean running along side with rear speakers operating.’m trying to hook up my 2006 scion tc stock subwoofer to my after market head unit. we use a similar service, mitchell ondemand (monthly subscription required) and that allows us to see what we’re dealing with and what it’s going to take to get the wiring right.: adding rcas to a standard car head unitif you want to upgrade your sound system in your car by adding a sub woofer or speakers powered by an auxiliary amplifier without having to get a . output convertor lp7-2 has adjustable input signals and signal sensing remote turn on. amp has an option of both high & low input as i was not sure of the availability of low level inputs from factory head unit…can u guide me on few of my queries here…. gmousersuitcase boom-boxby garren11featured channelswoodworkingpaperkitchen hackspuzzleslaser cuttingspacehomesteading3d printingsewingnewsletterjoin 2 million + to receive instant diy inspiration in your inbox. one way to check this is try fading just to those speakers, than balance it left and right. most likely this is because the signal for the sub is coming from the stock sub, not the interior speakers. if you dont have the code and you unplug your stereo it will not allow you to listen to it as it will assume it's been stolen. make sure you always turn off your amp when you leave your car, it will overheat and drain your battery. gm trucks, i love selling custom made boxes or jl audio stealth boxes.)… and … my hu is speked for a 2 to 4 ohm speaker impedance.. if the line out converter is not connected to the stock deck/dash unit, then there won't be a music input for the subs to function. look for the stock amp under the center console and look for the gray 8 pin plug, pins 7 and 3; 6 and 2. might be able to check the actual voltage as well with this app, but i don’t think it would be different. so you want to make sure you’re getting a left and right audio signal with both left and right positive and negative leads. you are adding an amp and sub to an already amplified factory system, you need to wire your amp in a little differently. is there any amp that will work with my stock head unit. i would look it up on my ondemand5 software which is more detailed and accurate than directechs, but i’m at home on my mac and it only works on pc (at work). the question i have is can i run a small 10″ 10 inch mtx off the dvc on the factory sub?

will it work in reverse, i have a new head unit going to a 97 sc400 oem nakamichi amp? if that’s the case, then just run a remote wire to an accessory power source to turn the amp on rather than relying on any signal sensing turn on feature.

for a 2008 silverado without the factory bose upgrade will gms active loudness function (or higher volume variable bass reduction) require me to install a sound processor or is this what the amp’s bass boost is for? think i know what it might be, but to really answer this i would need to know a bit more.  this is a good idea if you ever plan on changing the stereo as your rcas will already be ran. head units rarely have rca or "low line" outputs which your amplifier will need for it's input signal. want to keep the look of my truck stock so i may swap out the stock door speakers, tweeters, and center speaker. most amplifiers have a signal sensing turn on option these days so the idea is it doesn’t turn the amp on until it senses audio signal coming through the speakers. for example, positive in most jeep grand chrerokee tweeters is usually black, and negative is green. way around this is to also wire in a subwoofer control knob. i just purchased an audiocontrol eqs to start my system upgrade in my chrysler 200 with a stock head unit. you would be best to tie into the rear channel, this can be done @ the stock head unit. can i hook a sub up to that or do i need to get an aftermarket radio? and since you have the shelby model, you’ve already got the factory amplifier and a factory sub so you will need to play around with where you get your signal from. just installed a aftermarket radio in my 06 chevy equinox, everything turns on and looks like it is working but no sound is coming out. just cut the power wire, insert the inline fuse and reattach. now that you have your signal and remote turn on figured out, the rest is a pretty standard amp installation. is it possible to just hook up a loc to the rear factory sub and then just run the amp from there? i think he only does this in cars that have a stock amp and have a direct low noise pre-amp level audio signal. down side to wiring in an amplifier to a stock radio is that most stock stereos are self adjusting, meaning as you turn the volume up on the stereo, internally the stereo is usually keeping the bass level and the same in comparison to other frequencies. to tune a subwoofer amplifierhow to hook up an amp and sub to a stock stereoarticle - 2 ohm, 1 ohm, 4 ohm, what's the difference? when you buy the new wiring harness make sure its the same shape/size as your stereo. probably have a stock amplifier that needs to be powered up. does the "rem" stand for on my 100watt 16ser1002 amplifier? the way, i saw your pics of your truck in the link in the "subwoofer to amp wattage thread". a capacitor to prevent voltage drops caused by deep bass hits, i. i connect and amp for a subwoofer to the stock sub speaker wires. it’s so digital and so much fun to work with. then take a piece of speaker wire, strip and slit about 2 inches. if i were to tap into the factory speaker wires without the converter by cutting and splicing a rca cord? the top of my head, i’m pretty sure it’s a digital signal before the stock amp so i don’t think you can get a full range pre-amp level source. you can grab those wires either at the speakers themselves or behind the radio.  to make your speaker wire tester, simply take some speaker wire and electrical tape the positive wire to the positive post and the negative wire to the negative end of the battery. also, if you connect the line out converter straight to the subs without an amp, they won't have enough power to function. any ideas on how i can prevent this from happening? i wish i had the time to tear mine down and start from the bare metal like that. since they want to put together the cheapest stereo they can and charge a boat load of money for it, they use crappy speakers and eq them to sound better. is the problem when i play music too load the system shuts down.-use one rca to go from your y’d off connection to the line output convertor. are you certain it doesn't have a sub or preout on the back? what if any options are there for this if using a factory head unit? i replaced the stock speakers and tried to get them amped. if you have one or both of the speakers out of phase compared to all the other speakers in the car, it will sound pretty bad., please forgive an ignorant newbie question, but is there a reason the rear channel is better than the front? have 3 wires at ground position and a blue one, where does it go?  if you have a pair of speaker wires, you will hear the speaker popping or scratching. 4: splicing inokay, now you'll need to match up your head unit wiring with the wiring required by your converter. once you have it go unscrew your stock stereo, unplug it, plug in your new wiring harness, and plug in the other end to your stereo.

how many wires needed to be spliced in the end? does tieing an loc in parallel to the speaker circuit effect the circuit impedance? a bass knob is basically a control knob that is daisy chained between the rca connections at the amp and your high to lo level convertor. if you're venturing that far into car audio it's probably going to be worth a new headunitwell, it's not so much that the amp is huge (it's only 4x100w rms), but that the yaris' battery is tiny.

i have them in a 2004 honda accord tapped in through both rear trunk speakers currently and they sound great and all but with all this new technology there has to be a way to improve, could you guide me with any way to improve my system when switching it from the honda to the cadillac? if not what would i need to get these two systems working, was also hoping to get the 12 disk cd changer connected up -- trying to keep the system with original oem harness as much as possible. i just want to add my pioneer ts-w304r 12″ sub and dual xpe2700 400 watt amp for more bass. for the rem wire, i recommend wiring it to a fuse in your fuse box to prevent battery drain.. sound shop sold me a lp7 2 output converter…not sure how to wire it. i am only getting good bass when i balance all my speakers to either left or right. sometimes you need to go before the amp, sometimes after. find where you are going to mount it and work out if you need to add any wire to your converter to get . therefore when you adjust the bass going to your regular interior speakers, you are also adjusting the signal going to the amp. is this amp good enough to get nice bass from the sub? do i put an rca wire to a stock radio? i want bass without having to buy a new alternator lol…. i currently have them connected to the 6x9s in the back but it doesn’t sound to great. this boost in signal to the amp can result in a modest increase in bass going through your subs, but it can also put more stress on your stock speakers. tap, splice, solder, and tape the loc off of the stock sub channel and you’ll get an rca level connection for your mono amp. you cannot just plug it in; you must charge it first with a resistor, use a 1k ohm resistor because they do not get as hot, it only takes a few seconds to charge, do not do this bare handed. i have a 2012 ram 2500 pickup with factory alpin system and touch screen deck. my car has 6x9s in the front and the back.? i got 2 10 inch kicker competition,and a 800 watt power bass amp,stock radio…. that is feeding the actual audio signal to the amp. all’s well, but i noticed the left/right channels were reversed when i used the balance controls on the head unit. terry, i would recommend it because that “feature” will carry over to the amp and speakers and you may find it sounds good at certain volumes and changes on you as the head unit does it’s internal processing. just looked up the factory wiring diagram for a 2014 jeep cherokee sport with the basic 6 speaker audio system and it’s actually very simple. have a pioneer deck, amp, and kicker, installed to shut off from the battery. you can take the speaker leads off the back of the stock stereo and route them directly to your amp. to organize and hide your hanging computer cables under your desk. having a bass knob is nice even if you have an aftermarket stereo.-what did you use to tie it into the stock system? and if so, would you have to run wires from the door speakers to the sub location, and then another set of wires back to the doors to the speakers? chris, sorry for the late reply, was busy trying to survive the holiday season at our shop. would cause my sub to kick in when radio is on and stop working when i change source to cd? if you're using your stock head unit you have to purchase a toggle switch that fits your fancy, find a cool place to mount or hide it, from here you want to attach the remote wire to your amp, run it to your toggle, cut it, attach it to one terminal, then attach the end you just cut to another one. sure what’s causing the amp to go into protection mode – as a test, i would try it with your pioneer sub disconnected and see if the amp still goes into protect mode just from cycling the ignition (with no speaker load on it). really dont want to replace my factory radio (uconnect 8 rnr system), so i am going to give a loc a try..couldve sworn i just worked on an 01 the other day and the speakers were in the rear deck. i use either cd or aux (usb) the sound get significantly louder. your stock head unit does not have rca leads so you would be using the loc. running too low an impedance to the amp, this is the most common issue i see. this point swap the battery wires and you will see the speaker first sucking in and then releasing back out if the polarity is reversed. you’re going for sound quality, i would recommend one good 12″ rated around 600 watts with a 2 ohm load in a sealed box (either single voice coil, or dual 4 ohm wired in parallel down to 2 ohms). how would i be able to install the most optimal setup possible? whenever you add an amp and sub to a stock system, you have to get your signal for that amp/sub from one (or two) of the stock speakers in the car. usually the stock amp is fiber optic in those cars so you’ll get signal after the amp. my guess is they either have the gains too high on the amp or they have a bad ground or maybe they aren’t using a good line output converter and the signal input to the amp maybe too much, but that can be corrected with an adjustable line output converter.

have you encountered any issues with your system after doing this? you would be best to tie into the rear channel, this can be done @ the stock head unit.  this is not a standard feature of all line output convertors, so depending on which one you use, you may still need to find an accessory power source in the vehicle. if i wanted to add a mono amp to power 2 subs that i have, do i just connect the loc into the sub connection coming out of the stock amp? far as physically how you connect them – you want to strip back the stock speaker wire, wrap your aftermarket speaker wire around that wire and solder, electrical tape, zip tie or heat shrink then connect to your loc (obviously after identifying what’s positive and negative, what’s left and right) ). and also, why does my amp shut off only 10 minutes after i start using my system?

anything i add must be tied in post factory amp. Step by step how to guide with pictures on how to hook up an amp and sub to a stock stereo. i have used a speaker 2 rca with auto remote on a 4 guage wire kit. electrical tape at the entry point will give the wire added protection. do you properly set an eq in a car stereo? you tap the input side of the amp you dont even need a line out converter you can just splice some rca plugs in and get your signal there. allan, sorry to hear about your experience, but it sounds like a bunch of unprofessional installers. since it’s the basic system, it should be the same signal either way. have you considered maybe the quality of the product is not up to par? do i get power to amp subs that aren't playing? bill, i’m not quite sure what you’re asking. amp put out or should i just go get a loc and amp. assuming that the converter's inputs are 4ohm themselves, that leaves 2ohms of resistance for the stereo system to power to.’m looking to add a rockford fosgate p300 12″ in my 06 bmw 650i with premium sound just to add a little more bass. you were doing in your last car wasn’t really control the there i am confused again) i found the wires on the back of the head unit that i need to tap into (which i believe are the front speakers because they are 6×9’s and my rear speakers which are on the roll bar are 4×4’s, just dont know which set to use) if you could help me put an end to my madness annie it would be greatly appreciated!  after removing the radio, using your meter, check for power, ground and accessory wires. and also a list of all of the wires i need or adapters before i get started. its got 2 rca out-put side (i dont know which one to use) and about 16 diffrent places to put the wires into (i thought i only needed 4 slots. in home audio subs can be hooked up with speaker-level connections; can this be done in the same manner with a car audio setup? make sure this wire is safe from any moving objects. now i have nice speakers that i cant turn up loud. those will be designed to do the tuning and tweaking themselves, making it a much simpler install. guys, i just got a sub 6" or 8" with a maximum of 160 watts, amp integrated with rca slots and integrated fuse. just make sure to test for positive and negative so nothing is out of phase. i don’t want to spend money buying a deck, but i guess if this really is the problem i won’t have a choice. just hooked mine up in a 2009 chevy silverado but even with the amp on just low frequencies i’m getting vocals out of my subs which makes it sound slightly distorted. sounds great only one problem when car goes on or off i get an annoying distortion sound on subwoofer. are you certain it doesn't have a sub or preout on the back? i’ve triple checked the wiring and it all looks good.  so be certain you get your signal from the stock subwoofer if your vehicle comes equipped with one. with this processor you also have the option of using a digital aux in so for a dedicated super high fidelity source, you can use an ipod running through a high quality digital to analog convertor straight into the processor. is very important when matching subs and amps, yes not enough power will make subs clip, but also to much power will burn your voice coils by over heating them with too much power . lightly sand the contact area to expose clean metal before attaching ground. you don't need the other 2 speaker wires, from here secure the line out connector out of sight and run the rca's to the amp, plug them into the "in" rca jacks. you may need to twist and install both power and remote together or you can install it in the slot marked remote. or if you know the polarity of the front speakers, and they’re full range, you could always get the audio signal from those. can you do that or am i way off the mark?? do i have to keep the harness plugged into the head unit or do i have to keep it unplugged as i read somewhere you cannot power the speakers from both factory hu and amp simultaneously. so in the future there may be some nice options. adding sub woofer you need adapter that converts speaker output into rca connections..whats happening is my door speakers are either entirely flat with no tweat,or they are all tweat. would expect that they're all based around the same circuitry regardless of brand., I was wondering how difficult it is to add a sub to a factory car radio? so whichever route you decide to go, make sure you go to an experienced installer who knows what a frequency sweep is, a scope is, and what an rta is and make sure he knows how to use them because you really need all three to set up a processor correctly in a vehicle like this. all amps have three individual slots for power, ground and remote. it is very important to match the rms of your subs to your amp. me ur email address and i can get u a diagram. have a 2000 saab 9-3 se with the premium sound system, factory amp and two mini subwoofers (kinda blown) but changed one already to an infinity kappa 62.  if you were testing all of your wires earlier with a multimeter, you should know which wire is a switched power source.

Adding subwoofer to stock car radio? — Polk Audio

every car is different, but i would try it at the factory sub first, see how it sounds and then go from there. annie…maybe you can answer two questions i can’t seem to find information on. my question is if my oem amp is filtering out my signal to my 4 channel amp is it then best to tap the wires previous to the oem amp to achieve a better sound?.but nowhere have i found where its stated that its okay to do so! the rear 6×9’s are the stock subs in that car so you may either have your positive and negative mixed up (out of phase) which will greatly reduce bass or you have an issue with how you tuned your amp or something else may be going on. so it truly depends on whether the connection behind the radio is what we call pre-amp level and actually a straight up left and right full range signal or if it’s after the amp and crossed over. you unplug your factory fitted radio, make sure you have the "unlock code" usually in the owners handbook. with audison i had many defective units and it would take months, even over a year in one occasion, to have them repaired or exchanged (one of the reasons we stopped carrying them). stock wiring is never color coated to be anything like aftermarket wiring. with the factory premium system, the stock amp is already filtering out the bass to the stock speakers. otherwise you could look into a processor like jl audio’s fix-82 or alpine’s pxah800 if you ever wanted to really clean up the dsp processor and amp the speakers.  i particularly like the jl audio cl-rlc as it is not only a subwoofer control knob, but also a line driver. you can read more about the new jl audio processor here, scroll towards the bottom of the post. the amp has both high and low inputs, remote subwoofer control as well as variable bass boost. i’m not a huge fan of those infinity speakers, but in their defense, you are running them through the stock saab stereo and stock amp, which was specifically designed and tuned for the original saab speakers. oh well, you can just pull the radio and tag the speakers there, you'll have to get an ignition source for the remote wire and its all behind the radio. an amp and subwoofer to a stock radio can be the easiest way to improve your stereo system in your car, if you do it correctly. additionally i would get a bass knob so you can have an independent sub level volume control as opposed to adjusting the bass on the head unit which will adjust bass levels to all speakers. for readers that need more details on polarity testing you can check out this video post or this post on wiring up a head unit when the wires have been cut. the stock head unit has 4 channel audio output, there is no special can bus amplifier in this model like in the other jeeps so there really isn’t any reason for that other than a poor installation. i hooked up a line output converter and when i shut my car off the amp begins to work and apply bass. xav-ax100 reviewbest double din navigation 2016 reviewbavsound stage one speaker upgradebest double din head unit 2015 dynamat reviewpioneer double din avh-x2700bsalpine ilx-007 reviewapp radio 4 - the good, the bad and the quirky. anybody have any idea which wires i would need to tie in to? so it's not like adding an extra speaker to the circuit. first thing you will need, if you don’t already have it, is a line output converter. trying to figure that thing out is just giving me a headache question what is the difference if i tap the signal from harness behind hu or i tap it from each speaker individually? of these trucks have a stock amp/sub – if so you can get access under the center console. make sure to get your positive and negative’s correct, none of this stuff will be labeled so make sure you have the right tools to test (multimeter & battery speaker popper tester) and buy yourself a vehicle schematic for your car so you know how to identify everything (check out all data diy). you still need to figure out what’s positive and negative (maybe by testing with the battery popper test with the factory sub reconnected? they have a few applications for gm trucks shown here and they kick ass. i’ve been told to tap into the front door speakers behind the head unit, and i’ve also heard to tap into the factory sub wires at the pre existing sub. you want to take out a door speaker and run 2 of the 4 speaker wires to it, pay attention to the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals. remember to shut off the amp if you do so manually. i209-wra and x209-wra – alpine finally gets all the features right for jeep wrangler owners.. you should be able to connect it to the auxiliary on the back of the stereo unit.  if you are adding an amp and sub to a factory premium sound system with it’s own stock subwoofer, you must get your signal for the line output converter from that subwoofer.  if you have a premium factory radio, that has it’s own amplifier, check to see if there is a factory subwoofer. typically the only things that will cause an amp to shut down like that is a bad ground or a signal that is clipping causing the amp to overheat and shut down. subs and amps should be matched as closely as possible for best performance and longevity. if it does, that would indicate possibly a poor ground for the amplifier. i play the radio the sound is low, lacks bass, cannot enjoy it at all. even if i remove the keys and open/close the doors, it all stays on. the remote turn on could be a white wire in the stock radio harness (listed in directechs software for 2008 and up). sometimes you really only need to use two audio signals. what im wondering is how would i wire the input to the loc so that i can power both of my subwoofers. sounds like maybe you used the signal sensing feature of your line output convertor, they can do funky things like that. i was thinking of hooking it up to the ignition wire so it is turned on and off with the turn of the key, any problems with this? jack to rca directly to the speakers using the radio as a medium. it was probably a dual voice coil woofer and that’s probably why you have 4 wires, they’re probably two sets of positive and negative, but hook the factory sub back up and test to confirm or you can always purchase a vehicle wire schematic from all data diy.

’d prefer the back speakers to run off the hu, so do i splice two connections for both sets of rca’s from the front speakers? cars tie the power antenna lead into the stock amp turn on wire, so if you didn’t try it, you could hook up the power antenna lead on the car side. i was thinking of replacing them with polk audio (components in the front and coaxial for the back. like a positive one side of sub and negative on other side of factory sub ? but you can tune the front and rear channels separately on the amp to get a balanced sound that is appealing to you. try to find a true accessory or ignition wire to get the timing right. or so) would help with the spikes and not render the poor battery empty with every kick of the bass :dyou do realise that it's the battery that charges the capacitor, right? can i do if my stereo doesn't work after i attached my blue wire to the turn on wire? you would be best to tie into the rear channel, this can be done @ the stock head unit. if you have a stock stereo and you have the remote wire there you want to in twine the remote wire with the power wire before inserting in the power slot for amp. annie i have a question if i am connecting a line out converter on a factory rafio but there are no speakers installed the wires are there and i know which ones are going to each speaker how would i find out polarity on the wires. i have n 07 cadillac cts none bose but have an amp n stock head unit i put coil axe pioneers in the doors i have a stock sub in the rear deck i pick up a bazooka tube self amp i tried to wire behind amp did not work tried head unit did not work says it’s easy install not in this case any advice i have a loc but some say behind radio n i heard u say at the sub if u have any advice pls i’d appreciate it. the amplifier amplifies that audio signal and feeds it the speaker output..everythings working, you just need to mount your converter to something, only really to stop it rattling and tapping when you're driving, then cable tie any loose wires . do i need to keep the factory sub installed and wired up too? know my husband does this sometimes but i don’t know how he determines which vehicles it’s okay to do this in and which ones are not. and getting power but no sound is coming from the sub:mad:.  factory radios don’t have pre amp outputs, this adapter will convert factory speaker wire into a preamp output. theres no stock sub or anything like that (its the low end model jeep). for the rca jacks, if your using a after market stereo on the back there is 2 rca jacks, just run the rca from there to the "in" on your amp and try to avoid running rca jacks alongside power lines to minimize noise. Factory head units rarely have RCA or "Low line" outputs which your amplifier will need for it's input signal. for wiring, you’ll need a 4 ga wiring kit, you’ll probably want to get a subwoofer control knob. and got a audiopipe rca converter and hooked it up to the rear speaker wires behind the head unit and ran the cable to the amp. you can help… is it possible to hook an oem am radio with the “redirad” from a 1965 barracuda to an amp in order to split it to run more than the one speaker it came from the factory with. but alas, i’m limited to one local audio shop and big box store installation. i tied into the rear channel of my old ranger and that worked perfectly. i read some of your blogs but want to get more specific with my car.?

hi i have the same with my sub at home. i hooked up an amp and 12″ sub to a 2013 honda civic using an adapter to get rca jack from back speakers of said auto. you’ve already got the equipment so i would wire it up and see how it sounds. i did it all with a little hard work and wal mart. these converters are around 25 bucks from your local car audio shop. and attach the power wire to the other end of the resistor, your voltmeter should jump up to around 12. oh well, you can just pull the radio and tag the speakers there, you'll have to get an ignition source for the remote wire and its all behind the radio. as soon as the speakers were amped up the sound shuts off. shame on the search engines for not positioning this post higher! it’s a basic set up it should be no problem: you have a stock stereo with left and right channels and a separate positive and negative for each speaker from the stereo? if not, yeah i would grab a 4 channel line output converter and use two separate rca cables – one run the front channel and another to the sub channel. you’ll have to run your remote wire to an ignition source in the car so the amp turns on with the key and goes off with the key. i can tell you the ones we use usually have 4 wires, but they’re usually gray, gray w/black stripe, white, white w/black stripe and that represents left and right front speaker leads. if you don’t, if you go to a midrange or tweeter, you’ll be feeding your amp midrange or tweeter frequencies and you won’t get any bass. removing factory sub and adding a memphis pr 10″, using a scoche loc90. you’re more interested in doing this yourself and want to tune via the amp, just go hi level and forget using a processor for now. ground it to a piece of bare metal (not painted); most people unscrew a bolt from a seat attach the wire and screw it on. when the install is complete and i hook back up the battery neg terminal to the car, the system works and sounds good.: best car speakers for bass - car stereo reviews & news + tuning, wiring, how to guide's. i only ask because i just recently (this past weekend) installed a mono amp in my son's dodge dakota, used the "amp-supplied line out converter", but spliced into the front channel (it's a quad cab truck with four door speakers-all the same). can p/up a line out converter that converts speaker level to rca. can p/up a line out converter that converts speaker level to rca. articleshow to install an amplifierhow to bridge an amplifierhow to choose a guitar amplifier for rock musichow to make a network cable.