i have installed a kit like you are talking about, it was 4 or 5 speaker wires that were spliced total. i’m trying to connect front speakers, sub and amp in my oem unit, but i’ll need 2 sets of rca’s to do this correct? you’re going more for output and sound quality, go for two 12″‘s rated around 300 watts each and they would need to be either single voice coil 4 ohms or dual 2 ohms, also sealed box. can p/up a line out converter that converts speaker level to rca. good luck with your install, it took me a couple of hours, but you won't have to keep stopping to take photos ;)hmm. line drivers boost the signal from the stereo which can give you a lot more output. annie i’m hooking up a aftermarket hi-fonics zeus 1200 watt amp and subwoofer in my friends 2003 chrysler 300m special with the premium sound 9 speaker system and everything is hooked up correctly but i’m not getting any bass to the subs i know it has a factory amp located in the back under the deck and it also has the bass knob which is hooked up under the driver side panel under the wheel i don’t believe it has a subwoofer but i didn’t search either lol…. to know what you’re dealing with exactly, i would recommend buying a vehicle wire schematic specifically for your truck from all data diy. it works »new instructable »adding rcas to a standard car head unit. if you do that, you’ll also need 1 additional set of rca’s, assuming the amp kit you buy comes with one (there is an in and an out on the control knob). your rear speakers are on the rear deck, so its easy to tag on to your speaker wires there. it hears your sub and thinks it’s road noise and gets whacked out trying to correct it. i heard those are hi level outputs that’s why they sound the way they do. as i say its not really influencing the signal to the rear speakers, i doubt it makes any difference you could detect with your ears even at high volume. your only wiring options are running each subs voice coils series, then parallel the subs for a final 4 ohm load or wire the voice coils parallel, then parallel the subs for a final 1 ohm load. tape or heatshrink tubingwire to extend the piggyback cables on the converter (i used around 20 awg)soldering iron to solder extension wire if neededscotch blocks i ended up using 6cable ties not essential but handy for keeping wiring neat. everything works fine when i turn my radio on and off the amp goes off and on…. read many of the comments left by other users and all the great solutions you left them with and i’m sure using a little common sense i could figure it out myself but, you have more experience than i. your sub wires to the amp and screw them in. then when the fix and the twk comes out from jl you can clean it up even more. honda accords are equipped with a noise cancellation microphone in the cabin – it needs to be disconnected, that will fix your problem! you’re simply tapping into those wires to get your audio feed, it won’t effect how those rear speakers are functioning in any way.« previousnext »view all steps download
seems you know your stuff maybe you can help me out with this problem? would look it up on my mechanic software (ondemand – subscription based), but if that’s not an option, you can always purchase schematic access for your own car from all data diy. problem you may encounter when wiring an amp and sub into a premium factory sound system is the signal level may be too high or too low. then we test the outputs to verify whether it’s full range or cut off. the stock amp really is not powerful enough nor designed to run the impedance of your mtx. annie, i have a 2015 chrysler 300, i installed a kicker kisloc off the 4 factory sub wires in the trunk.i thought about this but was worried about losing sound quality and i wasn't sure how well it would work with my 5-channel amp.
thanks in advance if you can help
frankvery cool, but one contemplation here. if this is the case and you wire in your line output converter to the rear door speakers, you may only be getting frequencies of 80 hz and up, not exactly what you’re looking for when it comes to bass. speaker wires tend to be grouped together, so look for what may be pairs to start testing. you can get a full range signal behind the head unit you should get your signal at the stock sub.; connect the rem wire to a fuse that only has power when the car is on. sounds so much better that it is actually kind of amazing to me. charles – whenever you have an stock amplified system, most of the the time the stock amp has internal crossovers and it’s directing the lower bass frequencies to the stock subwoofer and upper and mid range to the appropriate sized speakers. and if you ever did want to change the stereo, keep a look out for alpine and idatalink. can i hook a sub up to that or do i need to get an aftermarket radio? 12v power and ground connectors to the wires will reduce circuit resistance and make your power cleaner, giving you better sound. you do not want the amp wired up to constant power as this will drain your car battery. if you do decide to upgrade speakers and you want to power them off the stock stereo, make sure they are efficient and while you’re in there install dynamat as that will really help to provide a better cabinet for the speakers to operate in. but when balance is even, i don’t get any bass. if so, you can:-just use a line output convertor like this one. it to a fuse connected to ignition turn on, like your accessory power fuse. you have determined the proper speaker wires for the rear speakers, you can tap into them and hook them up to the line output converter. everything works fine but sometimes i get a loud humming sound from the subwoofer. i had this same system installed on a 2009 gmc sierra and was able to control the bass through the factory radio bass controls but nor sure why it doesnt control it on the jeep? anne i have a 2014 jeep cherokee sport and the jeep came with no amp or subs. s-line and it has the premium bose system with a stock subwoofer. the sub cuts on and off at high volume when i use the auxiliary cord to phone. annie, i have an 06 maxima with the factory premium bose sound system. you want to upgrade your sound system in your car by adding a sub woofer or speakers powered by an auxiliary amplifier without having to get a new head unit then hopefully this should help you :). hope that’s a start for you, but do some more homework before you feel comfortable tackling the project. or do you prefer i try to purchase maybe a more up to date amp for my optimal set up. the only way to get them to work is by unplugging the rca’s to the amp and plug them back in, then it plays…. my main concern is controlling the volume to a subwoofer. i recently did this in a subaru with morel tempo speakers (just did speakers and dynamat off basic stock stereo) and was pleasantly surprised at the justice the stock stereo did for those speakers. to wire up an aftermarket stereo when your stock harness has been cuteasy way to identify positive and negative on factory speaker wiringwhat does it mean to bridge an amp? all of those things effect the sound quality and output you will achieve. if you're using after market stereo there will be a blue wire coming from the wire harness in the back, mostly these are attached so you have to splice, just snip them and tape off the old end and run your remote wire to your amp. personally, i’ve never used the app for that, we have a regular old oscilloscope for tests like that, but the app has that feature as well (may need additional interface, not sure). i’m adding subs and an amp with a pac lp7-2.’m wanting to install aftermarket amp/sub/speakers to my stock radio.? and while feeding the amp output back to speakers n subs we connect speaker wires to each speaker leads, so whats the difference between amp input signal n amp output signal, its confusing me as for eg. have connect a speaker to rca with remote turn on/off. you want an amp more powerful than your sub, because you don't want your sub to clip. you tap the input side of the amp you dont even need a line out converter you can just splice some rca plugs in and get your signal there..couldve sworn i just worked on an 01 the other day and the speakers were in the rear deck. all of my original speakers work still, whether the sub is on or not. i’m curious, when you stay stock subwoofers, where were they located? if the signal going into the amp is distorted, that could be what’s causing it shut down at higher volumes. you're using an after market head unit, go to an electronics store's stereo department and ask for a wiring harness from your car to the after market head unit.
will it work in reverse, i have a new head unit going to a 97 sc400 oem nakamichi amp? if that’s the case, then just run a remote wire to an accessory power source to turn the amp on rather than relying on any signal sensing turn on feature.
for a 2008 silverado without the factory bose upgrade will gms active loudness function (or higher volume variable bass reduction) require me to install a sound processor or is this what the amp’s bass boost is for? think i know what it might be, but to really answer this i would need to know a bit more. this is a good idea if you ever plan on changing the stereo as your rcas will already be ran. head units rarely have rca or "low line" outputs which your amplifier will need for it's input signal. want to keep the look of my truck stock so i may swap out the stock door speakers, tweeters, and center speaker. most amplifiers have a signal sensing turn on option these days so the idea is it doesn’t turn the amp on until it senses audio signal coming through the speakers. for example, positive in most jeep grand chrerokee tweeters is usually black, and negative is green. way around this is to also wire in a subwoofer control knob. i just purchased an audiocontrol eqs to start my system upgrade in my chrysler 200 with a stock head unit. you would be best to tie into the rear channel, this can be done @ the stock head unit. can i hook a sub up to that or do i need to get an aftermarket radio? and since you have the shelby model, you’ve already got the factory amplifier and a factory sub so you will need to play around with where you get your signal from. just installed a aftermarket radio in my 06 chevy equinox, everything turns on and looks like it is working but no sound is coming out. just cut the power wire, insert the inline fuse and reattach. now that you have your signal and remote turn on figured out, the rest is a pretty standard amp installation. is it possible to just hook up a loc to the rear factory sub and then just run the amp from there? i think he only does this in cars that have a stock amp and have a direct low noise pre-amp level audio signal. down side to wiring in an amplifier to a stock radio is that most stock stereos are self adjusting, meaning as you turn the volume up on the stereo, internally the stereo is usually keeping the bass level and the same in comparison to other frequencies. to tune a subwoofer amplifierhow to hook up an amp and sub to a stock stereoarticle - 2 ohm, 1 ohm, 4 ohm, what's the difference? when you buy the new wiring harness make sure its the same shape/size as your stereo. probably have a stock amplifier that needs to be powered up. does the "rem" stand for on my 100watt 16ser1002 amplifier? the way, i saw your pics of your truck in the link in the "subwoofer to amp wattage thread". a capacitor to prevent voltage drops caused by deep bass hits, i. i connect and amp for a subwoofer to the stock sub speaker wires. it’s so digital and so much fun to work with. then take a piece of speaker wire, strip and slit about 2 inches. if i were to tap into the factory speaker wires without the converter by cutting and splicing a rca cord? the top of my head, i’m pretty sure it’s a digital signal before the stock amp so i don’t think you can get a full range pre-amp level source. you can grab those wires either at the speakers themselves or behind the radio. to make your speaker wire tester, simply take some speaker wire and electrical tape the positive wire to the positive post and the negative wire to the negative end of the battery. also, if you connect the line out converter straight to the subs without an amp, they won't have enough power to function. any ideas on how i can prevent this from happening? i wish i had the time to tear mine down and start from the bare metal like that. since they want to put together the cheapest stereo they can and charge a boat load of money for it, they use crappy speakers and eq them to sound better. is the problem when i play music too load the system shuts down.-use one rca to go from your y’d off connection to the line output convertor. are you certain it doesn't have a sub or preout on the back? what if any options are there for this if using a factory head unit? i replaced the stock speakers and tried to get them amped. if you have one or both of the speakers out of phase compared to all the other speakers in the car, it will sound pretty bad., please forgive an ignorant newbie question, but is there a reason the rear channel is better than the front? have 3 wires at ground position and a blue one, where does it go? if you have a pair of speaker wires, you will hear the speaker popping or scratching. 4: splicing inokay, now you'll need to match up your head unit wiring with the wiring required by your converter. once you have it go unscrew your stock stereo, unplug it, plug in your new wiring harness, and plug in the other end to your stereo.
how many wires needed to be spliced in the end? does tieing an loc in parallel to the speaker circuit effect the circuit impedance? a bass knob is basically a control knob that is daisy chained between the rca connections at the amp and your high to lo level convertor. if you're venturing that far into car audio it's probably going to be worth a new headunitwell, it's not so much that the amp is huge (it's only 4x100w rms), but that the yaris' battery is tiny.
i have them in a 2004 honda accord tapped in through both rear trunk speakers currently and they sound great and all but with all this new technology there has to be a way to improve, could you guide me with any way to improve my system when switching it from the honda to the cadillac? if not what would i need to get these two systems working, was also hoping to get the 12 disk cd changer connected up -- trying to keep the system with original oem harness as much as possible. i just want to add my pioneer ts-w304r 12″ sub and dual xpe2700 400 watt amp for more bass. for the rem wire, i recommend wiring it to a fuse in your fuse box to prevent battery drain.. sound shop sold me a lp7 2 output converter…not sure how to wire it. i am only getting good bass when i balance all my speakers to either left or right. sometimes you need to go before the amp, sometimes after. find where you are going to mount it and work out if you need to add any wire to your converter to get . therefore when you adjust the bass going to your regular interior speakers, you are also adjusting the signal going to the amp. is this amp good enough to get nice bass from the sub? do i put an rca wire to a stock radio? i want bass without having to buy a new alternator lol…. i currently have them connected to the 6x9s in the back but it doesn’t sound to great. this boost in signal to the amp can result in a modest increase in bass going through your subs, but it can also put more stress on your stock speakers. tap, splice, solder, and tape the loc off of the stock sub channel and you’ll get an rca level connection for your mono amp. you cannot just plug it in; you must charge it first with a resistor, use a 1k ohm resistor because they do not get as hot, it only takes a few seconds to charge, do not do this bare handed. i have a 2012 ram 2500 pickup with factory alpin system and touch screen deck. my car has 6x9s in the front and the back.? i got 2 10 inch kicker competition,and a 800 watt power bass amp,stock radio…. that is feeding the actual audio signal to the amp. all’s well, but i noticed the left/right channels were reversed when i used the balance controls on the head unit. terry, i would recommend it because that “feature” will carry over to the amp and speakers and you may find it sounds good at certain volumes and changes on you as the head unit does it’s internal processing. just looked up the factory wiring diagram for a 2014 jeep cherokee sport with the basic 6 speaker audio system and it’s actually very simple. have a pioneer deck, amp, and kicker, installed to shut off from the battery. you can take the speaker leads off the back of the stock stereo and route them directly to your amp. to organize and hide your hanging computer cables under your desk. having a bass knob is nice even if you have an aftermarket stereo.-what did you use to tie it into the stock system? and if so, would you have to run wires from the door speakers to the sub location, and then another set of wires back to the doors to the speakers? chris, sorry for the late reply, was busy trying to survive the holiday season at our shop. would cause my sub to kick in when radio is on and stop working when i change source to cd? if you're using your stock head unit you have to purchase a toggle switch that fits your fancy, find a cool place to mount or hide it, from here you want to attach the remote wire to your amp, run it to your toggle, cut it, attach it to one terminal, then attach the end you just cut to another one. sure what’s causing the amp to go into protection mode – as a test, i would try it with your pioneer sub disconnected and see if the amp still goes into protect mode just from cycling the ignition (with no speaker load on it). really dont want to replace my factory radio (uconnect 8 rnr system), so i am going to give a loc a try..couldve sworn i just worked on an 01 the other day and the speakers were in the rear deck. i use either cd or aux (usb) the sound get significantly louder. your stock head unit does not have rca leads so you would be using the loc. running too low an impedance to the amp, this is the most common issue i see. this point swap the battery wires and you will see the speaker first sucking in and then releasing back out if the polarity is reversed. you’re going for sound quality, i would recommend one good 12″ rated around 600 watts with a 2 ohm load in a sealed box (either single voice coil, or dual 4 ohm wired in parallel down to 2 ohms). how would i be able to install the most optimal setup possible? whenever you add an amp and sub to a stock system, you have to get your signal for that amp/sub from one (or two) of the stock speakers in the car. usually the stock amp is fiber optic in those cars so you’ll get signal after the amp. my guess is they either have the gains too high on the amp or they have a bad ground or maybe they aren’t using a good line output converter and the signal input to the amp maybe too much, but that can be corrected with an adjustable line output converter.
have you encountered any issues with your system after doing this? you would be best to tie into the rear channel, this can be done @ the stock head unit. this is not a standard feature of all line output convertors, so depending on which one you use, you may still need to find an accessory power source in the vehicle. if i wanted to add a mono amp to power 2 subs that i have, do i just connect the loc into the sub connection coming out of the stock amp? far as physically how you connect them – you want to strip back the stock speaker wire, wrap your aftermarket speaker wire around that wire and solder, electrical tape, zip tie or heat shrink then connect to your loc (obviously after identifying what’s positive and negative, what’s left and right) ). and also, why does my amp shut off only 10 minutes after i start using my system?
anything i add must be tied in post factory amp. Step by step how to guide with pictures on how to hook up an amp and sub to a stock stereo. i have used a speaker 2 rca with auto remote on a 4 guage wire kit. electrical tape at the entry point will give the wire added protection. do you properly set an eq in a car stereo? you tap the input side of the amp you dont even need a line out converter you can just splice some rca plugs in and get your signal there. allan, sorry to hear about your experience, but it sounds like a bunch of unprofessional installers. since it’s the basic system, it should be the same signal either way. have you considered maybe the quality of the product is not up to par? do i get power to amp subs that aren't playing? bill, i’m not quite sure what you’re asking. amp put out or should i just go get a loc and amp. assuming that the converter's inputs are 4ohm themselves, that leaves 2ohms of resistance for the stereo system to power to.’m looking to add a rockford fosgate p300 12″ in my 06 bmw 650i with premium sound just to add a little more bass. you were doing in your last car wasn’t really control the sub..so there i am confused again) i found the wires on the back of the head unit that i need to tap into (which i believe are the front speakers because they are 6×9’s and my rear speakers which are on the roll bar are 4×4’s, just dont know which set to use) if you could help me put an end to my madness annie it would be greatly appreciated! after removing the radio, using your meter, check for power, ground and accessory wires. and also a list of all of the wires i need or adapters before i get started. its got 2 rca out-put side (i dont know which one to use) and about 16 diffrent places to put the wires into (i thought i only needed 4 slots. in home audio subs can be hooked up with speaker-level connections; can this be done in the same manner with a car audio setup? make sure this wire is safe from any moving objects. now i have nice speakers that i cant turn up loud. those will be designed to do the tuning and tweaking themselves, making it a much simpler install. guys, i just got a sub 6" or 8" with a maximum of 160 watts, amp integrated with rca slots and integrated fuse. just make sure to test for positive and negative so nothing is out of phase. i don’t want to spend money buying a deck, but i guess if this really is the problem i won’t have a choice. just hooked mine up in a 2009 chevy silverado but even with the amp on just low frequencies i’m getting vocals out of my subs which makes it sound slightly distorted. sounds great only one problem when car goes on or off i get an annoying distortion sound on subwoofer. are you certain it doesn't have a sub or preout on the back? i’ve triple checked the wiring and it all looks good. so be certain you get your signal from the stock subwoofer if your vehicle comes equipped with one. with this processor you also have the option of using a digital aux in so for a dedicated super high fidelity source, you can use an ipod running through a high quality digital to analog convertor straight into the processor. is very important when matching subs and amps, yes not enough power will make subs clip, but also to much power will burn your voice coils by over heating them with too much power . lightly sand the contact area to expose clean metal before attaching ground. you don't need the other 2 speaker wires, from here secure the line out connector out of sight and run the rca's to the amp, plug them into the "in" rca jacks. you may need to twist and install both power and remote together or you can install it in the slot marked remote. or if you know the polarity of the front speakers, and they’re full range, you could always get the audio signal from those. can you do that or am i way off the mark?? do i have to keep the harness plugged into the head unit or do i have to keep it unplugged as i read somewhere you cannot power the speakers from both factory hu and amp simultaneously. so in the future there may be some nice options. adding sub woofer you need adapter that converts speaker output into rca connections..whats happening is my door speakers are either entirely flat with no tweat,or they are all tweat. would expect that they're all based around the same circuitry regardless of brand., I was wondering how difficult it is to add a sub to a factory car radio? so whichever route you decide to go, make sure you go to an experienced installer who knows what a frequency sweep is, a scope is, and what an rta is and make sure he knows how to use them because you really need all three to set up a processor correctly in a vehicle like this. all amps have three individual slots for power, ground and remote. it is very important to match the rms of your subs to your amp. me ur email address and i can get u a diagram. have a 2000 saab 9-3 se with the premium sound system, factory amp and two mini subwoofers (kinda blown) but changed one already to an infinity kappa 62. if you were testing all of your wires earlier with a multimeter, you should know which wire is a switched power source.
every car is different, but i would try it at the factory sub first, see how it sounds and then go from there. annie…maybe you can answer two questions i can’t seem to find information on. my question is if my oem amp is filtering out my signal to my 4 channel amp is it then best to tap the wires previous to the oem amp to achieve a better sound?.but nowhere have i found where its stated that its okay to do so! the rear 6×9’s are the stock subs in that car so you may either have your positive and negative mixed up (out of phase) which will greatly reduce bass or you have an issue with how you tuned your amp or something else may be going on. so it truly depends on whether the connection behind the radio is what we call pre-amp level and actually a straight up left and right full range signal or if it’s after the amp and crossed over. you unplug your factory fitted radio, make sure you have the "unlock code" usually in the owners handbook. with audison i had many defective units and it would take months, even over a year in one occasion, to have them repaired or exchanged (one of the reasons we stopped carrying them). stock wiring is never color coated to be anything like aftermarket wiring. with the factory premium system, the stock amp is already filtering out the bass to the stock speakers. otherwise you could look into a processor like jl audio’s fix-82 or alpine’s pxah800 if you ever wanted to really clean up the dsp processor and amp the speakers. i particularly like the jl audio cl-rlc as it is not only a subwoofer control knob, but also a line driver. you can read more about the new jl audio processor here, scroll towards the bottom of the post. the amp has both high and low inputs, remote subwoofer control as well as variable bass boost. i’m not a huge fan of those infinity speakers, but in their defense, you are running them through the stock saab stereo and stock amp, which was specifically designed and tuned for the original saab speakers. oh well, you can just pull the radio and tag the speakers there, you'll have to get an ignition source for the remote wire and its all behind the radio. an amp and subwoofer to a stock radio can be the easiest way to improve your stereo system in your car, if you do it correctly. additionally i would get a bass knob so you can have an independent sub level volume control as opposed to adjusting the bass on the head unit which will adjust bass levels to all speakers. for readers that need more details on polarity testing you can check out this video post or this post on wiring up a head unit when the wires have been cut. the stock head unit has 4 channel audio output, there is no special can bus amplifier in this model like in the other jeeps so there really isn’t any reason for that other than a poor installation. i hooked up a line output converter and when i shut my car off the amp begins to work and apply bass. xav-ax100 reviewbest double din navigation 2016 reviewbavsound stage one speaker upgradebest double din head unit 2015 dynamat reviewpioneer double din avh-x2700bsalpine ilx-007 reviewapp radio 4 - the good, the bad and the quirky. anybody have any idea which wires i would need to tie in to? so it's not like adding an extra speaker to the circuit. first thing you will need, if you don’t already have it, is a line output converter. trying to figure that thing out is just giving me a headache lol..final question what is the difference if i tap the signal from harness behind hu or i tap it from each speaker individually? of these trucks have a stock amp/sub – if so you can get access under the center console. make sure to get your positive and negative’s correct, none of this stuff will be labeled so make sure you have the right tools to test (multimeter & battery speaker popper tester) and buy yourself a vehicle schematic for your car so you know how to identify everything (check out all data diy). you still need to figure out what’s positive and negative (maybe by testing with the battery popper test with the factory sub reconnected? they have a few applications for gm trucks shown here and they kick ass. i’ve been told to tap into the front door speakers behind the head unit, and i’ve also heard to tap into the factory sub wires at the pre existing sub. you want to take out a door speaker and run 2 of the 4 speaker wires to it, pay attention to the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals. remember to shut off the amp if you do so manually. i209-wra and x209-wra – alpine finally gets all the features right for jeep wrangler owners.. you should be able to connect it to the auxiliary on the back of the stereo unit. if you are adding an amp and sub to a factory premium sound system with it’s own stock subwoofer, you must get your signal for the line output converter from that subwoofer. if you have a premium factory radio, that has it’s own amplifier, check to see if there is a factory subwoofer. typically the only things that will cause an amp to shut down like that is a bad ground or a signal that is clipping causing the amp to overheat and shut down. subs and amps should be matched as closely as possible for best performance and longevity. if it does, that would indicate possibly a poor ground for the amplifier. i play the radio the sound is low, lacks bass, cannot enjoy it at all. even if i remove the keys and open/close the doors, it all stays on. the remote turn on could be a white wire in the stock radio harness (listed in directechs software for 2008 and up). sometimes you really only need to use two audio signals. what im wondering is how would i wire the input to the loc so that i can power both of my subwoofers. sounds like maybe you used the signal sensing feature of your line output convertor, they can do funky things like that. i was thinking of hooking it up to the ignition wire so it is turned on and off with the turn of the key, any problems with this? jack to rca directly to the speakers using the radio as a medium. it was probably a dual voice coil woofer and that’s probably why you have 4 wires, they’re probably two sets of positive and negative, but hook the factory sub back up and test to confirm or you can always purchase a vehicle wire schematic from all data diy.
’d prefer the back speakers to run off the hu, so do i splice two connections for both sets of rca’s from the front speakers? cars tie the power antenna lead into the stock amp turn on wire, so if you didn’t try it, you could hook up the power antenna lead on the car side. i was thinking of replacing them with polk audio (components in the front and coaxial for the back. like a positive one side of sub and negative on other side of factory sub ? but you can tune the front and rear channels separately on the amp to get a balanced sound that is appealing to you. try to find a true accessory or ignition wire to get the timing right. or so) would help with the spikes and not render the poor battery empty with every kick of the bass :dyou do realise that it's the battery that charges the capacitor, right? can i do if my stereo doesn't work after i attached my blue wire to the turn on wire? you would be best to tie into the rear channel, this can be done @ the stock head unit. if you have a stock stereo and you have the remote wire there you want to in twine the remote wire with the power wire before inserting in the power slot for amp. annie i have a question if i am connecting a line out converter on a factory rafio but there are no speakers installed the wires are there and i know which ones are going to each speaker how would i find out polarity on the wires. i have n 07 cadillac cts none bose but have an amp n stock head unit i put coil axe pioneers in the doors i have a stock sub in the rear deck i pick up a bazooka tube self amp i tried to wire behind amp did not work tried head unit did not work says it’s easy install not in this case any advice i have a loc but some say behind radio n i heard u say at the sub if u have any advice pls i’d appreciate it. the amplifier amplifies that audio signal and feeds it the speaker output..everythings working, you just need to mount your converter to something, only really to stop it rattling and tapping when you're driving, then cable tie any loose wires . do i need to keep the factory sub installed and wired up too? know my husband does this sometimes but i don’t know how he determines which vehicles it’s okay to do this in and which ones are not. and getting power but no sound is coming from the sub:mad:. factory radios don’t have pre amp outputs, this adapter will convert factory speaker wire into a preamp output. theres no stock sub or anything like that (its the low end model jeep). for the rca jacks, if your using a after market stereo on the back there is 2 rca jacks, just run the rca from there to the "in" on your amp and try to avoid running rca jacks alongside power lines to minimize noise. Factory head units rarely have RCA or "Low line" outputs which your amplifier will need for it's input signal. for wiring, you’ll need a 4 ga wiring kit, you’ll probably want to get a subwoofer control knob. and got a audiopipe rca converter and hooked it up to the rear speaker wires behind the head unit and ran the cable to the amp. you can help… is it possible to hook an oem am radio with the “redirad” from a 1965 barracuda to an amp in order to split it to run more than the one speaker it came from the factory with. but alas, i’m limited to one local audio shop and big box store installation. i tied into the rear channel of my old ranger and that worked perfectly. i read some of your blogs but want to get more specific with my car.?
hi i have the same with my sub at home. i hooked up an amp and 12″ sub to a 2013 honda civic using an adapter to get rca jack from back speakers of said auto. you’ve already got the equipment so i would wire it up and see how it sounds. i did it all with a little hard work and wal mart. these converters are around 25 bucks from your local car audio shop. and attach the power wire to the other end of the resistor, your voltmeter should jump up to around 12. oh well, you can just pull the radio and tag the speakers there, you'll have to get an ignition source for the remote wire and its all behind the radio. as soon as the speakers were amped up the sound shuts off. shame on the search engines for not positioning this post higher! it’s a basic set up it should be no problem: you have a stock stereo with left and right channels and a separate positive and negative for each speaker from the stereo? if not, yeah i would grab a 4 channel line output converter and use two separate rca cables – one run the front channel and another to the sub channel. you’ll have to run your remote wire to an ignition source in the car so the amp turns on with the key and goes off with the key. i can tell you the ones we use usually have 4 wires, but they’re usually gray, gray w/black stripe, white, white w/black stripe and that represents left and right front speaker leads. if you don’t, if you go to a midrange or tweeter, you’ll be feeding your amp midrange or tweeter frequencies and you won’t get any bass. removing factory sub and adding a memphis pr 10″, using a scoche loc90. you’re more interested in doing this yourself and want to tune via the amp, just go hi level and forget using a processor for now. ground it to a piece of bare metal (not painted); most people unscrew a bolt from a seat attach the wire and screw it on. when the install is complete and i hook back up the battery neg terminal to the car, the system works and sounds good.: best car speakers for bass - car stereo reviews & news + tuning, wiring, how to guide's. i only ask because i just recently (this past weekend) installed a mono amp in my son's dodge dakota, used the "amp-supplied line out converter", but spliced into the front channel (it's a quad cab truck with four door speakers-all the same). can p/up a line out converter that converts speaker level to rca. can p/up a line out converter that converts speaker level to rca. articleshow to install an amplifierhow to bridge an amplifierhow to choose a guitar amplifier for rock musichow to make a network cable.